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Streets of Udvada to get CCTV cameras, free Wi-Fi zones

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The Union textiles and information and broadcasting minister Smriti Irani dedicated an entrance gate which depicts Parsi culture at Udvada in Valsad district to the people of the village on Sunday. National Commission for Minorities member Vada Dasturji Khurshed Kaikobad Dastoor and district collector C R Kharsan were also present at the function.

Article in Times Of India

Smriti Irani described Iranshah Udvada Utsav as a super-initiative of Prime Minister Narendra Modi. She said, “The Iranshah Udvada Utsav is being celebrated for the past two years and it will help bring the whole Parsi community living anywhere in the world together. The young generation of the community will be able to know about their roots.”

She said soon every street of Udvada will have CCTV cameras and also free Wi-Fi zones and a primary health centre. The Union minister said since people of Udvada had adopted her, she will do everything for their well-being.

Smriti Irani had adopted Udvada to develop it as a model village to fulfill the dream of Prime Minister. She announced development work of Rs8.41 crore for the village which includes beautification of the lake, bus stop construction, toilet blocks, an anganwadi, a cricket ground, a garden, a fish market, a primary health centre, Wi-Fi zones, installation of CCTV cameras, a school building, RCC roads and a crematorium.

The three-day Iranshah Udvada Utsav was inaugurated by chief minister-designate Vijay Rupani along with Union minister Mukhtar Abbas Naqvi on Saturday. It is being organized with the help of Gujarat Tourism.


Not Just Milk and Sugar

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Not Just Milk and Sugar is a beautiful film written and directed by good friend and brilliant young director Divya Cowasji.

Not Just Milk & Sugar is an accessible inquiry into the Zoroastrian faith, its basic teachings, uniqueness, and myths. Through a bedtime story told by a grandfather to his grandson, the relevance of this ancient faith in today’s modern world unfolds as a simple and beautiful ecological message. A film written & directed by Divya Cowasji, produced by Ministry of Minority Affairs, Government of India for Jiyo Parsi.

Ex-communicated Parsis Get their own Fire Temple

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The Rs 2.5-crore shrine was funded by donors like top lawyer Fali Nariman, corporate head honcho Cyrus Guzdar, ex-advocate general Darius Khambhata, industrialist Anu Aga and Pirojshah Godrej Foundation

Article by Linah Baliga | Pune Mirror

A group of reformist Parsis on Monday raised the banner of revolt against orthodoxy by inaugurating a fire temple in Pune that not only recognises children of Parsis who have married outside the community, but also allows non- Parsis entry.

The fire temple, where the eternal fire was lit by ten mobeds (priests), of which two are from Mumbai, has been funded by donors like top lawyer Fali Nariman, corporate head honcho Cyrus Guzdar, former advocate general and senior counsel Darius Khambhata, industrialist Anu Aga and the Pirojshah Godrej Foundation.

The Rs 2.5-crore fire temple, located in Pune’s Kondhwa area, is likely to stir a controversy and will range the reformists under the umbrella of Association for Revival of Zoroastrianism against the orthodox who have for decades rejected reforms to protect the community’s racial purity.

The inauguration, marked by a ‘jashan’ ceremony, was attended by over 100 Parsis and non-Parsis, some of whom were ex-communicated for marrying outside the community. Setideh Irani, 30, attended the opening service with her non-Parsi husband Manish Upadhyay and their nine-month-old daughter. Irani said she felt welcome in the community once again. “I am happy that I will be able to bring back my child and introduce her to my religion. One of the purposes of this fire temple is also to allow people from other faiths to learn about Zoroastrianism,” she said.

Vispy Wadia, a reformist, said the community is facing extinction because those who have married outside the community are being discriminated against. “We firmly believe that Zoroastrianism is a universal religion. This fire temple will strive to ensure that there is no discrimination. More than being a bold step, it is a progressive step,” said Wadia.

Wadia said the conflict between the liberals and the traditionalists boiled down to a “non-existent racial purity” which the orthodox have held dear for centuries. “No race is pure or impure. We are pure and impure only by our thoughts. Over 40 per cent of Parsis marry outside the community. This trend seems to have become irreversible now. Even our respected Dasturs and Vada-Dasturs (priests and head priests) have failed to guard their folk as their children have had inter-caste marriages too. It, therefore, makes sense to accept at least children and spouses of Parsis who have married outside the community as the declining population trend cannot be otherwise reversed,” said Wadia.

The Parsi Zoroastrian population in India is diminishing fast and will diminish faster in the years to come because 35 per cent of Parsis are in the age group of 60 and above. In about 20 years, there will be no more than 20,000 Zoroastrians in India. More than 30 Zoroastrian Anjumans in various towns and villages of Gujarat and Maharashtra are defunct because there are no Zoroastrians left there.

Carl Rodin, 22, Emily Rodin, 25, and Yakub Rodin, 18 flew all the way from Norway to be a part of the ‘jashan’. Their grandmother Meher Spanberg is a Parsi who married a Christian and thus had to forfeit the right to enter a fire temple. “It is wonderful to be witness to centuries-old traditions and this is our first time in a fire temple. We learnt about the importance of fire, the meaning of worship, and the goodness of this religion,” said Emily.

Ave Mehta, a Parsi married to a Punjabi, said she had to perform her daughter Aibara’s ‘navjote’ in a private ceremony with the help of a liberal priest. “My daughter is now married to a Parsi,” she said. Mehta described the inauguration of the new fire temple as “a momentous occasion and a forward thinking decision to help up the dwindling numbers.”

Dasturji Khushroo Fali Madon, who worked at the J D Agiary in Colaba for 20 years, headed the ‘jashan’ ceremony. “If you read the book of five ‘gathas’ or spiritual hymns composed by Zaratharustra, it mentions that non-Parsis can follow our religion. Unfortunately, our socalled orthodox scholars think otherwise,” he said.

The new fire temple will perform navjotes of children from inter-racial marriages and solemnise marriages and perform funeral rituals.

Bombay Parsi Punchayet okays Parsi General Hospital deal that kicked up row

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The Bombay Parsi Punchayet (BPP) has endorsed the tie-up between B D Petit Parsee General hospital and Gurgaon-based Medanta chain of hospitals.

As reported by TOI last November, a Hong Kong-based Parsi businessman is donating Rs 150 crore to rescue the financially-ailing hospital at Breach Candy, which is meant exclusively for Parsi patients. However, several members of the community had opposed the deal, stating it was a “sell-out” and that the prime property would slip out of the community’s control.

On January 2, BPP trustees and the management of the hospital met and approved the project. The trustees “unequivocally, firmly and wholeheartedly support the new secular hospital project…,” said a joint press release on Friday.

Some messages on social media criticized the deal. “The Hong Kong donor said he will give Rs 150 crore in future to the hospital only if the Rs 2,000 crore property is handed over to Medanta now. Under the guise of management contract, the Parsi community has been purposefully kept in the dark about the terms of contract. In spite of three written requests sent to the trustees, they are refusing to make the agreement public and trying to alienate valuable trust property,” said a post.

The donation will be used to build a new 15-storey cosmopolitan hospital within the sprawling complex and handed over to Medanta. Medanta, in turn, will cross-subsidise medical facilities for Parsi patients and pay an annual fee to the hospital.

Parsis May Want to Look to the New Pune Fire Temple to Keep the Flame Burning

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A ‘half-Parsi’ explains why Parsis must end their insistence on only marrying within the community and open the doors of their religion to the rest of the world.

Born a little over a hundred years ago in Uttar Pradesh, my grandmother was both a devout and a highly-liberal Parsi; she wrote books on Zoroastrianism for children and railed against the orthodoxy. As a student at Bombay University over half a century ago – she went back for a college education when she was in her 50s – she once told her professor that she was frustrated over just how narrow and closed the Parsi community in India had become. Her professor said that change took time; a few generations at the very least.

Article by Anahita Mukherjee | The Wire

My grandmother died just two weeks short of her 100th birthday. I wish she had been around to see a major change last week: the inauguration of a new fire temple in Pune whose doors will be open to people of all communities. This fire temple has been funded by well-known Parsi industrialists, lawyers and philanthropists, proof that many eminent members of the community are not represented by the orthodox elements.

The fire temple will perform marriage ceremonies for Parsis marrying outside the community as well as navjots (initiation ceremonies) for children of Parsis who marry outside the community.

This represents a tectonic shift in the way Zoroastrianism is practiced in India. Fire temples in India do not allow those of other faiths, or ‘excommunicated’ Zoroastrians, a term used for the children of Parsi mothers and non-Parsi fathers, to enter.

As a half-Parsi growing up in Mumbai, I was completely oblivious of my own excommunication. My mother would take me to fire temples in the city. On one occasion, as a child, a young priest at a fire temple was so impressed with the gusto with which I recited a series of Zoroastrian prayers that he even brought me a chocolate. He, too, seemed to have been ignorant of my ex-communicated status. As for my large extended family I inherited on the Parsi side, it simply was not interested; it has been meeting every year for the last 99 years, and includes non-Parsi spouses and children who are half-Parsi, quarter-Parsi and with other levels of ‘dilution’.

As a child, I remember how perplexed I was when a Parsi friend patiently explained why she would not marry a non-Parsi. This, when we were both only ten years old. She said that Hindus and Muslims “were all the same”, and had similar cultures, while Parsis were very different, and had a unique culture of their own, and so it would be better to marry within the community. Such is the level of indoctrination.

While I find her views on Hindus and Muslims being the same rather delightful, its now increasingly clear that Parsis are driving themselves to extinction with their insistence on marrying within the community and their refusal to open the doors of their religion to the rest of the world. Sadly, the government of India recently funded the ‘Jiyo Parsi’ ad campaign aimed at getting young Parsi men and women to get married – to each other – and procreate to ensure the survival of the community – in the most regressive and patriarchal way.

With under 70,000 Parsis in India and a large ageing population, marrying within the community will not preserve an ancient culture; it will merely constrict the gene pool and result in diseased offspring. In-breeding is better suited to pedigree puppies. Or race-horses. It’s certainly not a good idea for human beings.

Parsis who married outside the community, as well as non-Parsis with Parsi spouses, have for long struggled to be a part of the funeral rites of their loved ones at the Towers of Silence, where bodies are eventually placed for vultures to feed on. But as the vulture population began to decline (a bit like the Parsi population), and bodies remained decomposing in the Towers, many Parsis moved away from such archaic practices and chose more sustainable ones, such as cremation and burial.

Barring non-Parsis from fire temples and funeral ceremonies will gradually be of little relevance, as there will be less and less people to bar. The community will have moved on, leaving the orthodoxy behind. Many charitable schools started for Parsi children today have barely any and welcome children from other faiths.

For years, the liberals have battled the lunatic sections of the Parsi right-wing over who can enter fire temples and who should be allowed for funeral rites. Gradually, the liberals seem to have grown weary of debating with a miniscule faction of racists and bigots, and are now fashioning a more egalitarian and open faith on their own. The opening of a new temple is part of that effort.

It’s a tad ironic that while fire temples in India have long closed their doors on non-Zoroastrians, those in Iran, where the religion originated, are open to people of all faith. I breezed into a fire temple in Tehran a few years ago with both a Hindu and a Muslim by my side. I’ve visited a fire temple in Pakistan, too, and photographed the priest and the sacred fire – there was no outcry.

While an association of Parsis in California is open to non-Parsi spouses, in Florida, a popular Parsi priest has a Catholic wife. Just the sort of flexibility that the community needs to survive. If India’s Parsis want to stave off extinction, they may want to look to the new Pune fire temple to keep the flame burning.

Anahita Mukherjee is a former Assistant Editor with the Times of India is now based in the US.

India Trip Helps 25 Zoroastrian Youngsters Get Closer to Their Identity

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The trip through Udvada, Navsari, Surat and Bharuch in Gujarat has helped the Zoroastrian youth from across the world get some answers about their religious identity.

By Asmita Sarkar | Little India

Twenty five Zoroastrian youth from across the world are in India for a “Return to Roots” program. The initiative, organized by Parzor, a New Delhi-based foundation that works with Unesco to preserve the community, culture, heritage and the Zoroastrian religion, is taking the group to the culturally significant locations in Mumbai and Gujarat.

The group, comprising youngsters from the United States, United Kingdom, New Zealand, Pakistan and other countries, is in India for the fourth installment of the program, which they said became popular due to word-of-mouth publicity.

The participants, along with volunteers and scholars, attended the Iranshah Udvada Utsav in Gujarat from Dec. 23 to 25, 2017. The Fire Temple festival is a celebration of the culture and religion of the small community. Parsis from all over the world come for the festival.

“The program has historical importance and it reinforces identity,” United States-based Arzan Sam Wadia, one of the organizers, told Little India. It will tell them how the Parsi community came to be in India, Zubin Gheesta, a Mumbai-based volunteer added.

The Zoroastrian religion has two strands, the Parsis and the Iranis. They originated in Iran, but left the country between the 8th and 10th century fearing persecution. The minority community is spread across the world, with the largest population being in India.

Among the participants this year is Anahita Partovi, an Irani woman from California, who wanted to see the other side of the religion.

“I didn’t know how they lived. This is a great experience for me. I knew some of the stories but now I can put them all together,” the 25-year-old student told Little India.

The essence of the journey for the group has been to come to terms with their identity. Living away from the community has been alienating for many of them and the trip — through Udvada, Navsari, Surat and Bharuch in Gujarat — has helped them get some clarity about themselves.

“The trip was fulfilling, it filled a gap in my identity. This was like a healing process and gave me whatever the immigration took from me,” said Tanya Hoshi from Toronto, Canada. Hoshi was born in Karachi, and lived in Pakistan till the age of 6 years.

In Canada, she went to religion classes every Sunday but did not feel a strong enough connection. Most of her peers grew outside the community. The India trip has been eye-opening, she said.

For others, it was interesting to see the first fire temple and the general upliftment of the society that the community is involved in.

Aubtin Yazdgardian from Vancouver, Canada, was surprised at the sophisticated fire temples in India. The country has two fire temples – one each in Toronto and Vancouver. The one in Vancouver, he said, was not open 24 hours but people come together during spiritual ceremonies.

Many among the Parsi youth, like many others across the world, are split between being involved in or remaining distant from religion.

For 27-year-old Sanaya Master, however, there is no confusion. After growing up in New Zealand, she moved to United Kingdom for work, and currently works full-time towards organizing the World Zoroastrian Youth Leaders Forum to be held in March 2018. She was earlier part of the organizing team of the same forum in New Zealand, where the community is fairly new and has only 1,500 individuals, who live close to each other. “I met other young Zoroastrians and learned more about the religion during the India trip,” she said.

With India struck off the list of dream destinations, the next place that looms large for them is, of course, Iran. The desire is deep, plans are taking a firm shape, and all that remains to fall in place is a conducive political climate.

Temple hosts first navjote of kids with non-Parsi father

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Zoroastrian centre in Pune allows entry to people of all religions and gender

The newly opened fire temple in Kondhwa in Pune, which welcomes people of all religions and gender, hosted a navjote ceremony of two children born to a Zoroastrian mother and her Australian husband.

Article by Jyoti Shelar | The Hindu

jyoti-navjoteAG8V36ETC13jpgClad in traditional attire, men and women gathered at Asha Vahishta Zoroastrian Centre, as priests carried out the rituals for 10-year-old Cyrus Hoffmann and his 7-year-old sister, Sanaya, to welcome them into the fold of the Zoroastrian religion.

The children’s mother, Shireen Hoffmann was born a Parsi, and married Cameron, an Australian. The couple have lived in Brisbane for the last 24 years. “I am a Zoroastrian. My husband, too, has interest in my religion, and he has done a lot of research on it. We have raised our children as Zoroastrians,” said Ms. Hoffmann, 43, an interior designer.

The family had planned a private navjote ceremony for their children in Mumbai, but when they read about the new fire temple that would welcome children of Parsi women who had married outside the community, they decided to change the venue to Pune. “We didn’t even know that we were going to be the first family there to have the ceremony. But we are so glad we did,” Ms. Hoffmann said.

She said getting rid of the discrimination was extremely important, and she is glad that the centre is acting as a torch-bearer.

Children of women who marry outside the community are not welcome in fire temples. However, children of Parsi men who have married non-Parsi women don’t face such discrimination. “ Navjote ceremonies of children born to non-Parsi fathers have been carried out earlier too, in residences, open lawns, Parsi baugs and even hotels. But holding the ceremony in a religious place definitely adds value to it,” said Vispy Wadia, founder member of the Association for Revival of Zoroastrianism, under which the centre has been built.

For Ms. Hoffmann, having the ceremony in a fire temple where her entire family felt welcome, was extremely satisfying. She said, “It was a beautiful feeling.”

Valiant Parsis in War and Peace By Marzban Giara

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VALIANT PARSIS IN WAR AND PEACE

320 pages, hard bound, illustrated, printed on art paper

Valiant Parsis Jacket

Foreword by Air Chief Marshal Fali Major (Retired)

An index of names – surnamewise of 550 Parsi officers and men with 200 photographs.

Price:Rs.700/- plus courier charges

Available from:

Marzban J. Giara,

WZO Trust Funds Senior Citizens Centre,

Pinjara Street,

Malesar, Navsari,

Gujarat, India

Pin 396445

e-mail: marzbang@gmail.com

Available from 1st January 2018 at Mumbai:

1. Mr. Hoshedar E. Ichhaporia. Desai Building, ground floor, (opp. Bank Of India). 668, Katrak Road, Dadar Parsi Colony Tel. 24124303

2. Karani Agiary, Cusrow Baug, Colaba

3. Tata Agiary, Bandra

4. Mevawalla Agiary Byculla

5. Parsiana book shop, K. K. Chambers, A. K. Nayak Marg, Fort, Mumbai Tel 22074335/22074347

6. Jame Jamshed office, 2282020223

The author Marzban Giara has documented the lives and contribution of Parsi officers and men of the armed forces, police, fire brigade as a labour of love. It has an index of names surnamewise of 550 Parsis and 200 photographs.

This book has an attractive outer jacket with colour pictures of all the Parsi service chiefs on the front cover and Lt. Generals, Air Marshals, Vice/Rear Admirals on the rear cover. It has a foreword by Air Chief Marshal Fali H. Major (Retired)

There is a special section 24 pages with colour pictures of medals pre independence and post independence and life sketches of the Parsi service chiefs – Field Marshal Maneckshaw, Admiral Jal Cursetji, Air Marshal Aspi Engineer, Air Chief Marshal Fali H. A. Major, as also Vice Admiral Rustom Contractor, Director General, Indian Coast Guard and Khusro F. Rustamji, Director General, BSF; Keki Dadabhoy of Black Cat Commandos and Lt. Col. Adi B. Tarapore, the only Parsi winner of Param Veer Chakra.

There is a chronological record detailing the contribution and preparedness of the Parsi community during the Second World War. Pictures of the two War Memorials at Khareghat Colony, Mumbai are included. A list of Parsis who died during World War II, Indo Pakistan Wars and Indo China War of 1962 is also given. Date of disbanding of the Parsi Battalion is also given as also obituaries of several Parsi officers and men.

——————————————————————————————————————-

Table of Contents

Title

Dedicatory page

Table of Contents

Foreword

Preface

Introduction

Recipients of Awards and Medals

Pictures of Awards and Medals

Life sketches of Parsi officers and men (arranged alphabetically surnamewise) 200 pages

Parsis in Police Service

Chronological record from 1919 onwards

Parsi Ambulance Division

War Memorials

Index of names – surnamewise

Press announcements

Bibliography

Acknowledgments

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Marzban Jamshedji Giara is the author and publisher of books on Zarathushti religion and Parsi history. In the eighties he helped Dr. Bahman Surti to publish seven volumes of SHAH NAMAH OF FIRDAOSI in English Prose. What started as a hobby has become a full time obsession. During the past 33 years he has produced many firsts including the first illustrated Global Directory of Zoroastrian Fire Temples in 1998 and its 2nd edition in December 2002, The Zoroastrian Pilgrim’s Guide in 1999, Parsi Statues in 2000, All India Directory of Parsi Institutions in 2010 and its 2nd edition in 2015 and The Contribution of the Parsi Community during the First World War (1914-1918). He has to his credit thirty six other books, some authored or compiled by him, some translated from Gujarati into English. He is perhaps the only one who has had a track record of consistent performance in bringing out new and informative publications that meet the needs of the community and most of these with his own resources, without seeking any sponsorship. A keen student of Parsi history and Zarathushti religion, he is an independent thinker, writer, public speaker, free lance journalist and research worker.

His parents and his teachers have been the inspiration for him. Right from childhood, his father ingrained in him the idea: “Son, be a creator and not a spectator in life. We must give back to society more than what we have received from it.” These words have motivated him to pursue his noble work of bringing out new and innovative books in the service of the community. Married to Bapsy (nee Daruvala) since 1969, they have a son Zareer and a grandson Farhad. The family’s support and encouragement from friends and well wishers drives him to carry on with his work in his chosen field of endeavour.

He has been featured in The Times of India, Jam-E-Jamshed, Afternoon Despatch and Courier, Indian Express as also in Parsiana and was interviewed on Doordarshan TV and ZEE TV alpha Humata Hukhta Hvarashta for his publications. He is interested in devotional music and has compiled and published two song books Jarthosti Gayan Sangrah, and Gaavo Maari Saathe Singalong Treasure Trove of Parsi Songs and also produced audio CDs of devotional hymns Zoroastrian Melodies, Khushaline Bandgina Geeto, Ame Chhaiye Parsi.

Mr. Rusi M. Lala has acknowledged his contribution in his book For The Love Of India biography of Jamsetji N. Tata. His article Through the Lens on Parsi photographers co-authored along with Dr. Nawaz B. Modi is included in Vol. III of the tome Enduring Legacy published in 2005. His article “Statues in the making of Bombay” has been published in the tome Threads of Continuity by PARZOR in March 2016. He has presented slide shows on Parsi statues highlighting their contribution to humanity.


A return to Zoroastrian roots: The ancient religion you should know more about

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The 4th Zoroastrian Return to Roots tour commenced in Mumbai this December. Twenty-five Zoroastrian youngsters from across the world, spanning USA, Canada, New Zealand, Pakistan, and UAE are on a 13-day trip through India to reconnect with their customs and traditions. The trip includes visits to fire temples, Doongerwadis, and Parsi establishments, in and around Delhi, Mumbai, Udvada, Navsari, and Surat; complemented by home-made Parsi cuisine. Their journey is a means to promote the rich Parsi and Irani culture amongst the youth. The ‘fellows’ also attended the Iranshah Udvada Utsav, a biennial festival celebrating Zoroastrian culture.

IMG_20180101_182609_1

Article By Anindita Mukhopadhyay | Qrius

Origin and history of Zoroastrianism

One of the world’s oldest extant religion, originating from the prehistoric Indo-Iranian period, Zoroastrianism was founded by Zarathustra, the prophet of ancient Iran. He is recognised for rejecting the pantheon of deities and demons of the traditional Indo-Iranian religion with just one transcendent God or Ahura, the ‘Lord of Wisdom’—Ahura Mazda. He is considered the creator of the entire universe, including mankind. The monotheistic religion is far older than most present-day religions. In fact, major religions such as Judaism, Christianity, and Islam, have been influenced by the tenets of Zoroastrianism. In a time when most worship consisted mainly of elaborate rituals to satisfy angry deities, Zarathustra preached a religion of personal ethics in which people’s actions in life were more important than ritual and sacrifice. He proposed the concept of personal responsibility and advocated the notion of free-will, to fulfil the ideals of Humata, Hukhta, Huvarshta—good thoughts, good words, and good deeds.

The teachings of Zarathustra began to spread far and wide, in Persia and its adjoining provinces primarily through nomadic tribes. Cyrus, on becoming the emperor of the vast Persian empire, made Zoroastrianism popular throughout Egypt, Greece, and Persia, largely with the help of the Magi, a priestly community from Medes. The rule of Alexander marked a temporary decline in the prevalence of Zoroastrianism amongst Persians. However, it was revived in 3rd century AD, by the Sassanians, who recognized the religious authority of the priests as an integral aspect of political power. The state and the religion, therefore, became inseparable during their reign. Zoroastrianism suffered a serious blow with the end of the Sassanid dynasty in 7th century AD, with the Muslim conquest. Zoroastrians were subjected to widespread oppression and discrimination.

Waning of the Zoroastrian influence

The religion all but disappeared from the country, first from the cities and then in the rural areas, leaving behind a few followers at most. These followers suffered persecution at the hands of their Muslim rulers for several centuries to come. Reza Sha Pahlavi overthrew the rule of the Qajar dynasty in 1925, releasing the Zoroastrians from years of subjugation. The handful of Zoroastrians in Iran today, estimated at about 30,000, are recognised as a religious minority, along with Christians and Jews. However, the major chunk of Zarathushtis fled to India, over a long period of time, to preserve and practice their faith without fear of persecution or discrimination. Following the silk route in the course of trade and merchandise, the immigrants settled in the port cities of Bombay and Surat, where they continue to live today as ‘Parsis’. Later influxes from Iran have been termed as ‘Iranis’ to distinguish them from their predecessors. This small Zoroastrian community has played a vital role in the Indian struggle for independence, as well as the subsequent economic development of the country.

The Return to Roots in India

With 69,000 adherents in India, the small Parsi community represents a mere 0.006% of the Indian population but constitutes the single largest Zoroastrian community in the world. The ‘Return to Roots’ Programme, organised under the aegis of the Parazor Foundation, was borne out of the increasing disconnect felt between Zoroastrians in the diaspora and their ancestral communities in Iran and India. “The need arose when two cousins, one from Mumbai, and the other from the US, realised they didn’t know much about the culture they shared,” said Arzan Sam Wadia, the programme director for RTR. Started in 2014, the youth-initiated programme is designed to strengthen community identity amongst Zoroastrian youth across the world. Small groups of Zoroastrians between the ages of 20 and 35 years undertake trips to explore their religious, social and cultural heritage rooted in India.

Participants are drawn from the Zoroastrian diaspora who want to explore their culture, community, and potential opportunities in Zoroastrian India. The tour includes visits to the historical sites in Gujarat where the Parsis first arrived from Iran including Udvada, Navsari, Surat and Bharuch. The sites of Parsi pilgrimage encompass visits to the Agiaries, Atash Behrams or Fire Temples—at Udvada, Navsari, Modi, and Vakil—and Doongerwadi Towers of Silence or dakhmas. These are an integral part of their journey to rediscover their culture and customs, as remarked by 22-year-old Cyrus Karanjia from Karachi. “We follow similar customs and traditions. We have the same prayers, but we hardly know what it means. Most of the customs have been handed down through generations and the meanings have been lost. This trip has helped us reconnect with our origin.” The group imbibes lessons in Zoroastrian history from community scholars, and meet local Zoroastrians at the forefront of business, government, philanthropy, and the arts. The youngsters are often invited to Parsi homes for meals, boasting lavish spreads in the true spirit of Indian hospitality.

The future of Return To Roots

The programme aims to foster a sense of community amongst fellows, encouraging individuals to contribute to the institutions they visit as well as the program, even after participation. Fellows return from India with a deep understanding and appreciation for the small but powerful Parsi community in India, and experience first-hand the significance of their long-standing religious customs and traditions. In fact, the increased participation in the year’s RTR programme, reflects the involvement of fellows with their local Zoroastrian associations, giving back to the community, and encouraging other youth to participate in Return to Roots.

The organisers believe that programmes like the RTR will help the community emerge out of near-extinction. “The youth has become more questioning of their customs and traditions. They need reasons. A trip like this helps put matters in perspective,” they said. Hence, the emphasis is on the youth, rather than elderly participants, who may find the intense schedules exhausting, nor teenagers, who on the other hand, may not absorb the religious discourses and debates.

Ultimately, the vision of Return to Roots is to reconnect Zoroastrians in the diaspora with their origins in India and Iran. The programme hopes to contribute to the preservation of the cultural identity of Zoroastrians across the world.

Eyes on Mumbai: Sooni Taraporevala’s photo exhibition reveals a heartwarming visual sojourn of the city across four decades

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In Tardeo, Mumbai, Cozy Building stands as tall as it did back in 1921—the year it was built. One of four buildings in the lane that are agreeably “Parsi,” it hosts conversations over newspapers and tea on its balconies even today.

“I can still sit on my parents’ balcony and make the same frame I did in 1980 with my photo evenings at Cozy Building,” said Sooni Taraporevala of how, in many ways, the city is still what it used to be in the ’80s. And it is seldom that a city goes back to being what it was once was, except for perhaps in old photographs.

Article by Paroma Mukherjee | Hindustan Times

sooni-exhibit

In Sooni Taraporevala’s exhibition, “Home in the City: Bombay 1977 to Mumbai 2017” at the Vadehra Art Gallery in New Delhi, the images hail her as the city’s relentless documentarian. Curated by Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi, a rich landscape of photographs that is intrinsic to the city’s charm hang on the walls and rest in a book. Taraporevala began photographing the city in 1977 with her first camera, a Nikkormat, which was bought with money borrowed from her roommate at Harvard.

“After I repaid her, I took a leave of absence for a semester and returned home with my new camera and 50mm lens. The photos dated 1977 were taken at this time and I haven’t stopped since then. I think my eye is still the same, my style as well, as well as what interests me has remained the same. What has developed is my speed and technical skills,” said Taraporevala.

Taraporevala is known for the proximity she exhibits in her images, be it the subject or her own relationship with the place she chooses to portray. Her photographs of Mumbai are a rare document of the change it has seen, even in the most publicly frequented spaces.

Check out some of the photos from the exhibition here

In her book of photographs of the same name, Pico Iyer makes an astute observation, “The crowds, the public world, the shared dreams are all part of a sometimes devouring disorder that shows no signs of subsiding; but in the eyes and lives of individuals is a dignity, a resilience and a sweetness that nothing can erase.”

Be it the faceless, dismembered statues of Lord Marquis of Cornwallis (Governor General of India) and Queen Victoria or a blindfolded, young Irrfan Khan during a ‘Salaam Bombay!’ acting workshop in 1987, Taraporevala’s portraits reveal the layered, cultural and historical milieu of the city’s past and present.

The affectionate eye with which she chooses her moments is incredible and rare, also making her observation of the city somewhat apolitical. But then, that is also perhaps a larger reflection of the distance that the city’s cultural communities keep from the nation’s everyday affairs.

As Salman Rushdie writes in ‘Eyeblink Choices,’ of her work, “To photograph it over the metamorphic decades, while it transforms itself from one city to another, Bombay into Mumbai, is to make those instant decisions, both moral and artistic, every day.”

From unguarded moments on film sets to public events, Taraporevala’s eye is trained on the oddities of daily life — a trait that is rather particular to Mumbai and never really hidden from those who truly roam on its streets.

“In my experience it (Mumbai) has always been an extremely welcoming city for photographers,” said Taraporevala when asked if it was harder now to make photographs than before. But then, there is a telling photograph of the back of an old man walking on the pavement titled “After the festivities are over, Mumbai 2016” that hints at an odd distance, perhaps for the first time, between Taraporevala and her quiet, aged subject.

Change, after all, is inevitable, even in a photograph.

What: Home in the City, Bombay 1977 – Mumbai 2017, an exhibition of photographs by Sooni Taraporewala

When: 11am – 7pm, Monday to Saturday, till January 24

Where: Vadehra Art Gallery, D-40 Defence Colony

Call: 24622545

Nearest Metro Station: Lajpat Nagar

Zoroastrains in India to explore cultural boundaries

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An annual tour is bringing together young Zoroastrians from across the world to explore their culture in India and even find a partner

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Return To Roots fellows on a BEST, Mumbai. Photo: Aniruddha Chowdhury/Mint

As the tall blue bus rounds the corner of Mumbai’s Crawford Market on to Mohammed Ali Road, the Sunday morning street traders squint up at the tourists assembled on its open upper deck. Some of them wave, and one guy blows a cheerful kiss to the 22-year-old American with a camera strapped around her neck. She returns the gesture, laughing.

Article by Supriya Nair | Mint

“There’s the husband your family wanted you to find on this trip,” one of the other girls jokes. “It can’t be,” the 22-year-old shoots back, mouth curving. “He’s not Parsi!”

They are a gathering of nearly two dozen young Zoroastrians who have never lived in India. Some, born in Iran, aren’t even Parsi, a word which defines a subcontinental social group. They’re at the end of a fortnight-long trip, part of Return To Roots (RTR), an annual programme run by their co-religionists to give diaspora youth—anywhere between the ages of 22 and 35—an anchor in the nerve centre of Zoroastrianism, on the western coast of India.

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The group at the Bhikha Behram, Mumbai

There may be fewer than 200,000 Zoroastrians in the world, by some accounts. The 2011 census of India indicated that just under 60,000 live in India. Most live in Mumbai, where they grew to be a dominant force in public life under British rule; and in Gujarat, where the first immigrants landed, fleeing persecution in Iran between the eighth and 10th centuries AD. A second wave of “Iranis” arrived in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, escaping Qajar-era pogroms. Many of their descendants now live and work abroad, away from what the RTR programme director, Arzan Sam Wadia, a 44-year-old architect from New York, sometimes refers to as the “motherland”.

It was for such young Zoroastrians that RTR was conceived in 2012 by a group of young expatriate Zoroastrians, Wadia included, who met at a community event in New York. Wadia, a Parsi born and brought up in Mumbai, now leads the programme’s annual two-week trip. It is open to any young Zoroastrian who applies to join, and can cover, at least partially, the door-to-door cost of $5,000 (around Rs3 lakh) a head.

A kernel of inspiration comes from Israel, where the government helps run the “Birthright Israel” programme meant to inculcate the spirit of the Jewish homeland in young members of their diaspora, helping them understand both religion and culture, past and present. In contrast, RTR is privately funded by friends and well-wishers, of whom there are many among India’s wealthy Parsis (a previous group even managed a rendezvous with Ratan Tata, chairman emeritus of Tata Sons). It’s not a call to resurrect a glorious past, or take sides in ongoing Zoroastrian battles over issues that deeply affect the community, including its sharply dwindling numbers and strict laws governing marriage outside the faith.

“It’s some good news in the middle of all that,” Wadia says. “To see young people come together to explore their culture instead of more bickering.”

*****

The very first RTR fellowship took place in 2013, and included 14 young people. Some trips coincide with important events on the Parsi calendar. In 2015, they looped in a quick flight to Delhi to see four museum exhibits, including the National Museum’s landmark The Everlasting Flame: Zoroastrianism In History And Imagination, part of the ministry of culture’s spotlight on Zoroastrian religion and culture. The Union government’s efforts to preserve Parsi ways of life have not bypassed RTR. In December, minister for information and broadcasting Smriti Irani, who takes her Zoroastrian husband’s last name, even called out to the group in a speech at a festival held in the pilgrimage town of Udvada, Gujarat, home to the “Iranshah”, an ever-burning sacred fire said to have been brought to India from Iran in 715 AD.

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The group at the statue of Hormusjee Cowasjee Dinshaw

The group, wearing “Return To Roots” T-shirts, was in the audience for that event, part of their tour of Parsi history. Before the tour wrapped up on 2 January, they had lunched in Mumbai’s legendary restaurant Jimmy Boy, and had dinner with the city’s splashy builder-baron Jimmy Mistry. They had dwelt on the fabulous nobility of the Parsi past in historic mansions in Surat and been to chikoo farms in Dahanu. They saw how the kusti, the traditional girdle worn to prayers, is made. They went to the Gujarati countryside to meet Parsi farmers living in tiny impoverished communities outside Navsari (the coastal city has a very old Parsi community), without the safety net the community provides to even the most penurious Parsis in Mumbai.

The double-decker bus tour through parts of South Mumbai was one of the last events on their schedule, designed to acquaint them with the high points of the city’s secular Parsi history. They gazed up at the statues of the Congress stalwart Dinshaw Vacha and the merchant prince Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy at Churchgate, and the historic buildings of Dadabhai Naoroji Road. They attended respectfully to the walk leader, Parsi scholar Khojeste Mistree, as he delivered a talk at the sacred Bhikha Behram well, where some older Parsis could be seen praying privately behind them.

“We make it very clear that this is not a pilgrimage,” Wadia says. But of course, the tour is designed to inculcate a spirit of reverence for Parsi religious culture. How could it be otherwise in the presence of the atash behrams, the consecrated fires at the heart of the holiest Parsi temples, of which only nine remain in the world, eight of them in India (and four of those in Mumbai); or at Malabar Hill’s tower of silence, one of the last remaining places in the world where Zoroastrians may conduct the traditional funerary practice of exposing the dead to the elements?

The catch is that same rules apply to these young Zoroastrians as to any Parsis in India who want to enter a fire temple or perform acts of worship therein: their parents, or at least their fathers, must be of the faith. Khojeste Mistree is often quoted as an eminent conservative voice on these matters in the Parsi press, and an RTR participant, who preferred not to be named, told me that at the end of the bus tour walk, Mistree went up to many of the young visitors and told them, as though pronouncing a benediction: “You must marry within the community. You must marry within the community.”

*****

For generations, these strictures have divided Parsis, as is evident from the debates that still rage weekly in the pages of Mumbai’s Jam-e-Jamshed newspaper (or the comments section of Parsi Khabar, the website Wadia edits). They have also heartbreaking consequences for families.

Among the RTR fellows this year was 30-year-old Jasmine Baetz, a Canadian ceramic artist who lives and works in the US, and was visiting India for the first time. Baetz is married to an American; her Parsi mother was sundered from her orthodox roots in India for marrying, as Baetz puts it, “a dude from Ontario”. For Baetz, the return to India was an opportunity to learn about, and perhaps find connection with, a community that had seemed to reject and exclude her.

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Arzan Sam Wadia taking a picture of the 2017 RTR fellows in Mumbai

Friends and relatives, some of them in their 80s, welcomed her into their homes. She’s eaten more Parsi food than her stomach can handle (Wadia told me that the programme supports as many Parsi-owned businesses as possible through its duration, which includes its hospitality and catering choices). She questioned the rules prohibiting fire temple entry and worship through the trip, but did not break them; nor did the RTR programme encourage circumvention.

“Change is coming to the community, and part of what we want to give young people on this tour is the full range of opinions on a lot of things that matter to us,” Wadia says. “But we’re also not going to break rules.”

“The community in North America may be much more liberal than what I’ve seen here,” Baetz says. This may be partially true. Even in Mumbai, where Parsi orthodoxy and Parsi power coincide, it’s possible to find liberal clerics to conduct a Navjote, the religious initiation, for children whose fathers are not Parsi—just as Baetz’s mother, finding no support among her co-religionists in Toronto, found a priest in California to do Baetz and her brother’s Navjote.

– Arzan Sam Wadia

There was one group of people for whom RTR was a homecoming in more than one sense—six young Karachiites, almost all of whom were on their fifth or sixth visit to India, where many have close family ties. The government’s pro-Parsi stance did not quite make the trip frictionless for Pakistani participants; at least one person got his visa mere hours before his flight was due.

They were not necessarily on this trip for a sense of renewal. Ancestral wealth and stately old relatives who pronounce “Tata” like “barter” are part of their own lives at home; sea-facing Mumbai apartments and the fire temples that dot the Gujarat coast mean childhood vacations, and meeting other young Parsis is often, as one young man said under his breath, about “finding a wife, wife, wife”. Welcome to the subcontinent. “There’s a lot of Parsi land and wealth in Pakistan,” Wadia says. “But there are 1,200 Parsis in Karachi. For them to come here and see those many Parsis just at one wedding at the Colaba agiary—that means something.”

Someday, Wadia hopes to take the programme to Pakistan and Iran— places central to Parsi history, and perhaps also portents of the community’s future in India. “Today, India has the largest population of Zoroastrians. What if, someday, that isn’t the case?” Wadia asks rhetorically. “What does the ‘motherland’ mean, then? What happens to everything of value here?” The answers are not easy, but the questions he hopes to provoke with this return to roots are meant to keep the flame alive.

Frene Ginwala, the Lenin supplement, and the storm drains of history

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THE LENIN SUPPLEMENT

In his book The Press of Africa – Persecution and Perseverance (Macmillan, London 1979) the Commonwealth media specialist Frank Barton said that if an identi-kit picture had to be made of the most improbable choice of an editor for a newly-nationalised newspaper in Africa soon after independence it would be something like this: a South African, an Asian and a woman.

Article By Adarsh Nayar., www.politicsweb.co.za

Yet, it was Frene Ginwala, rather than some well-educated black Tanzanian male revolutionary, that President Julius Nyerere chose to be managing editor of the Tanganyika Standard after he nationalised the English-language Press in 1970. He retained the slightly more prestigious title of editor-in-chief for himself.

Until Frene arrived on the confused Tanzanian scene a pin-less hand grenade in a sariThe Standard and its Sunday sister, The Sunday News had been part of the Nairobi-based Lonrho Group which also ran Kenya’s best known English language daily, The East African Standard in Nairobi and the Uganda Argus in Kampala.

Julius Nyerere – the Edinburgh University-educated intellectual (who his countrymen were encouraged to call Mwalimu which means The Teacher in Kiswahili) had written translations of some of Shakespeare’s plays from English into Kiswahili. With the assistance of his (almost) lifelong political handmaiden, the gate-keeper at State House and British Labour Party Fabian stalwart, Joan Wicken, he had also written a few books destined for schools about socialism. He had long wanted local newspapers to reflect his socialist policies after Independence in December 1961.

They went under the name of Ujamaa or Familyhood. His critics, and there were many of them, said that Ujamaa amounted to little more than an African version of the Sermon on the Mount / the social teachings in The Koran. the Fabians’ tortoise-slow approach to change and Pope Leo X111’s 1891 encyclical, Rerum Novarum.

Nyerere, branded a dangerous Marxist revolutionary by some British and American journalists and newspapers, was a devout Roman Catholic who had close ties to Africa-watchers in the Vatican.

The vast majority of Tanganyikans spoke Kiswahili. It was the glue that stuck different ethnic groups and religious cultures together. One should never under-estimate the important role coastal Muslims played and still play in Tanzania.

So what should Nyerere do about a foreign-owned newspaper group whose owners lauded him in public but who ridiculed him and his policies in private at their various watering-holes in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam?

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Julius Nyerere’s favourite photograph of himself. Here he is at a Dar es Salaam agricultural show at the height of his fame and when he was the Western donor world’s favourite African leader. Times were good and In the background, his English PA Joan Wicken looks on approvingly.

In the mid-1960s, President Nyerere’s desire to project himself as the natural leader of Africa after the downfall of his most serious rival to that claim – Kwame Nkrumah of Ghana – was strong. How best to put across his main concerns? The nationalisation of the English language Press seemed to be part of the answer.

In Africa, the most powerful medium for communication was the radio. Control of the airwaves was the number one priority of any leader hoping to stay in power for more than a few months. In most parts of Tanzania, village radios were installed. At night tribal elders and their wives and children gathered to listen to what the government wanted them to hear.

Tanganyika had been a German colony until 1918 and after his rise to power in 1933 Adolf Hitler wanted Germany’s colonies returned to him. British East Africa’s administrators and their overlords in London saw this as a bargaining chip with the Nazi leader. Between 1918 and their departure in 1961, the British did little to develop anything in Tanganyika, other than widen a few roads, encourage the growth of coffee and tea plantations ( all of them owned by foreigners) and help built a Westminster-style Legislative Council. Africans and Asians who joined in the “parliamentary” show were generally damned by young nationalists as sell-outs.

Surprisingly, Nyerere left the Press alone after his famous/infamous Arusha Declaration in February 1967. First the mills were nationalized, then the banks, finally everything that was in private hands. There was all of that plus a Leadership Code that set a ceiling on incomes and which stopped national leaders taking home more than a single pay packet. Then in 1971 came a set of socialist guidelines called Mwongozo – a document issued by the ruling party following the military coup in Uganda which overthrew Nyerere’s socialist companion, Milton Obote.

The Tanzanian guidelines inspired wild-cat strikes and struggles which lasted for the next couple of years and came to be known as post-Mwongozo struggles. Mwongozo’s most dynamic part was contained in Clause 14 which insisted that the lowest paid worker was as valuable to a company and the country as the highest paid manager and that the voices of the lowly had to be heard – loud and clear.

Socialists and Leftists around the world – particularly in Scandinavia – applauded Nyerere as some sort of African Messiah. But The Teacher needed massive overseas aid from the capitalists if he was to silence rowdy pupils in the classroom.

During a major speech in 1967, Nyerere – now the country’s unchallenged headmaster as well as teacher -explained the ramifications of his nationalisation declaration, someone in the crowd shouted out –“The Standard! The Standard!”

Nyerere replied: “Can you edit it?”

The ruling party, the Tanganyika African National Union (TANU), had its own paper The Nationalist under the editorship of an experienced Ghanaian, James Markham, when it was established in 1964. He was followed by Ben Mkapa, who went on to be Tanzania’s foreign minister and its third president from 1995-2005.

Frank Barton and other observers of the media in African Commonwealth countries said that President Nyerere was under intense pressure to take-over The Standard to underscore his radical credentials.

The pressure came from ultra-socialists in TANU and students who saw Nyerere and his mainly European advisers at State House as out- of -touch lackeys of the former colonial power (Britain) with only academic interest in the lives and problems of ordinary people – the much lauded Povo or Wananchi. Nyerere’s critics, who included many of the founder members of TANU, disliked most of the white expatriates at State House and called them (privately) the president’s economic praise singers.

For seven years, Nyerere’s most important economic adviser (and this was at a time when he was the darling of the donor community) was an American academic, Professor Reginald Herbold Green.

While commanding respect and admiration from the Nyerere Bureau at State House, newcomers to Tanzania were often taken back by Green’s eccentric, almost tramp-like, appearance, his whooping laugh, his head topped by long hair under a small Muslim cap, and his colourful neckerchiefs tied with a cowrie shell knot.

Green was unpopular with student militants.

The Hill was the name given to the University of Dar es Salaam which, in the 1970s, was the most radical campus in Africa. Many of the student leaders were in thrall to visiting Marxist lecturers who regularly popped in and out of Dar es Salaam, staying at the country’s most luxurious resting place, the Israeli-owned Kilimanjaro Hotel.

Although Green spoke their language, most of the radical students expressed suspicion when his name was mentioned.

Students were influenced by South Africa’s Nelson Mandela, Oliver Tambo and Walter Sisulu and Rhodesia’s Ndabaningi Sithole, Nathan Shamuyarira and Herbert Chitepo; as well as American blacks advocating their own form of apartheid in the USA, men like Stokely Carmichael, Eldridge Cleaver and Malcolm X:

Black Panther activists, including Robert Williams from Monroe, North Carolina, had been allowed to set up temporary homes in Tanzania. They were famous for their all- night parties and drinking sessions at the city’s famous New Africa and their radical calls for armed force against white racists in America. But the “threat” to Mwalimu and his Christian/Ford Foundation/Fabian Party friends and advisers at State House came from those Tanzanians embracing the teachings of “the real ones and the big guns” who were ready to get blood on their hands and put razors round the throats of their opponents – Algeria’s Franz Fanon, Germany’s Karl Marx, Russia’s Vladamir Lenin, Guiana’s Walter Rodney, Ghana’s Kwame Nkrumah and a score of other ideologues from so many different, and often warring, political denominations.

Nyerere was suspicious of the lot of them but now and again curtsied in their direction

The students also worshipped Mao and took on board Chou en Lai’s prediction that Africa was ripe for revolution. That was not at all comforting for Julius Nyerere who owed his job partly to the British Royal Marines who had put down the 1964 Army mutiny that rocked East Africa.

One of Nyerere’s most serious rivals for power after the demise of Oscar Kambona (who did so much to end the army mutiny) was Abdulrahman Babu, a strong admirer of China and Mao.

Students at The Hill started ideological classes on Sunday mornings when Nyerere’s Ujamaa based on an African interpretation of socialism came under attack.

The (Franz) Fanonist theory on violence was dominant. The first issue of the student magazine Cheche (it means Spark in Kiswahili, the name borrowed from Lenin’s Iskra) in November 1969 said its aim was to support the general truth of international socialist thought. “Let no one misunderstand lest they consider this to be an advocation of the deceptive, superficial, idealist and historically retrogressive theories – the so-called African Socialism that have sprouted up everywhere in Africa. No! Socialism is one, scientific and international.”

Waves of intellectual protest lapped around the doors of State House. 

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President Nyerere after the launching of his book ‘Education for Self- Reliance.’ With him is Joan Wicken. Her memoirs and diaries are under strict lock and key and will not be released for several decades to come.

Someone and something was needed to re-assure the masses that Julius Nyerere really was in charge and as radical – if not more so – than his growing band of critics. In early February 1970 the government announced the nationalization of The Standard.

But soon as it was known that a South African, an Asian, a Marxist woman would soon be in charge of the country’s most important newspaper, questions started (rumours, too).

What was the teacher/headmaster up to? Was he trying to polish his radical credentials to counter the brain-damaging rhetoric reaching the ears of pitifully paid urban workers and peasants? Why such secrecy in transparent, open, free Tanzania? Her appointment came so soon after the African National Congress’ 1969 Morogoro Conference which saw that organization allowing non-blacks to be members for the first time. Was her appointment a sign of Nyerere’s growing commitment to revolution in South Africa? Was he planning to “trump” the students who were openly mocking his advocacy of African Socialism/Ujamaa?

None of the international journalists in Dar es Salaam knew what was going on and the diplomatic community was no wiser.

Perhaps, quipped one American diplomat at a dinner party I attended several months after the take-over, Nyerere acquired Ginwala in the same way that the British acquired their empire – in a fit of absent mindedness. Then he added something I didn’t at that time begin to understand. He said: “There’s a saying they (the Africans) have – Put out the honey and see where the bees come from. Maybe Nyerere wants a militant to attract other militants so he knows who they are and where they all come from in Tanzania. And once you know who and where your enemies are coming from . . . “

When the sun went down on February 3, 1970, the outgoing editor of The Standard, Yorkshire-born Brendon Grimshaw, called several of us expatriates (then on two-year contracts and work permits) into his office to say goodbye. Later we all went for a drink at the European watering hole, the Gymkhana Club, which in those days only had one non-white member, an Indian Tanzanian who wanted to learn to play golf called Andy Chande who had been the owner of nearly all the country’s mills before the Arusha Declaration.

Brendon was dressed in a white shirt with epaulettes, white shorts with white socks stretching up from his well-polished black leather shoes to just below his knees. He looked like the captain of a ship that was about to sink.

There were tears in his eyes. He looked at me and then towards his deputy David Martin, the chief sub-editor John Gardner (who went on to become the night news editor of The Guardian in London) and several of the sub editors (not one of them a black).

It was like being a member of the cast in a Noel Coward play that Europeans put on so regularly at the city’s Little Theatre Club.

I want you chaps to carry on as normal. Remember always. Same winning cricket team . . . just a different captain.”

The following morning Ginwala and a collection of brightly dressed ladies no-one had seen before filed into Brendon’s old office carrying baskets, files, books and delicious smelling food.

One of the Tanzanian reporters called them the Parsee Bombers.

III

A year or so later the now more experienced and confident Frene Ginwala called me in into her office and said she was gathering material for a hundred page supplement to mark the birth of Lenin in April, 1871.

It would be written by specialists and her new recruits, many of them verbal Marxists, fresh graduates who knew all the right words and who had swallowed all the right books handed out at The Hill under the tutorship of Walter Rodney. As mentioned, the students had their own magazine called Cheche, whose watchwords were Burn, Speak and Fight.

There would be no adverts in this colossal Lenin supplement in honour of the great man’s war on capitalism.

I joked and said: “I love Lennon. But what about Paul, George and Ringo.”

She ignored my weak joke about The Beatles and said I would produce it and that every photograph, every word and above every headline would first have to be seen and approved by her.

As I turned to leave she said – “You’re a hard worker, Trevor and I like the way you do our supplements and meet production deadlines. Sadly, you’re not a socialist and well . . . you’re so politically unaware, so . . . so politically naïve.”

After Nyerere kicked her and her revolutionary recruits off the paper in August that year, someone in the newsroom whose face I recall but whose name I have forgotten told me I should be proud of myself. “That was the kindest thing she’d said to anyone in 18 months,” he told me.

There is very little one can say in praise of Frene Ginwala that she hasn’t already said herself.

She’s a South African Asian born in April 1932, daughter of wealthy parents. She studied law in England, was called to the Bar in London and then moved on to freelance journalism. But her main interest was in politics and the destruction of apartheid in South Africa. If she’d had a religion she’d have been a Zoroastrianism, a descendant of those fire-worshipping zealots who fled to India from Muslim persecution in Persia during the 7th–8th centuries. Frene didn’t worship fire. She worshipped Stalin.

In her young days, Frene travelled fairly widely in Asia working as a freelancer for the BBC.

In 1959, she returned to South Africa where she was trusted by the most senior ANC leaders to get Oliver Tambo out of the country and into a place where he could operate as the brain behind a guerrilla/propaganda war against the apartheid regime. She was one of the few people in the ANC with a passport.

Frene engineered Tambo’s escape and after much toing and froing in different parts of Africa, the departing British and the incoming TANU leadership allowed Tambo and Ginwala to stay on in Tanganyika.

At The Standard, none of the European staff had heard her name. But soon the rumour mill started up.

There were whispers that Nyerere wanted her because she was such an outsider and because he didn’t trust his own people to do the job. He promised her a Charter stating that there would be no interference by government. Nyerere also wanted her to organise a training programme so that Tanzanian journalists were no longer imitation expats from Britain. He wanted them steeped in Tanzanian socialism and believed Frene Ginwala was the right person to do the job.

After a lot of thought, Frene agreed. She admitted to being terrified of failure. “I was scared stiff” she said. “I thought I was going to be a sitting duck.” She knew next to nothing about editing and the title managing editor was meaningless to a woman whose writing skills had been developed in an ANC/Communist Party/ Spear of the Nation ideological coffin. So off she went to Zambia, spending just one week there learning at the hands of an English journalist who worked for Lonrho how to run a small newspaper empire. Barton says that she spent several nights having nightmares about losing all her expatriate staff. Thanks to Brendon’s re-assurances, all of us stayed at our posts.

But we were just journalists and Frene Ginwala made it clear from the start that was not what she wanted on her newspaper.

She went on a recruitment trip to the UK where she landed some big fish – Richard Gott of The Guardian; Tony Hall, a first-class South African journalist who had worked in Kenya on The Nation (owned by the Aga Khan); a man from Scotland called Iain Christie; and Rod Prince, a friend of Gott’s and a former editor of Peace News.

All the Tanzanians I have stayed in close contact with from those days remember the first time Frene Ginwala addressed a full meeting in the newsroom. She stunned the lot of us when she exclaimed that there was no such thing as objectivity. Hadji Konde, a talented reporter hand-picked by Brendon Grimshaw to take over from him before the February 1970 take-over, said: “It was as though the new vicar had started his sermon by telling the congregation that the New Testament was a load of rubbish.”

Barton picks up on this: “Frene Ginwala told them that stories were written by human beings and human beings selected the stories. Their personal values were inevitably reflected in what stories were selected for publication. The urge to be objective was in a sense an unreal thing. She told the editorial staff that what was needed in Tanzania was a committed paper, not a neutral observer because objectivity implied neutrality.” She told us: “We are not going to pretend to be objective.”

From now on, The Standard would be a committed-to-socialism paper written by committed-to-socialism reporters; and as the papers were government owned we were all now Tanzanian civil servants, even the expatriates like me.

The look of the papers stayed very much the same but the contents and the editorials made people sit up and take notice.

One of the first things Gott did was look around for more socialist sources of foreign features. He certainly knew his way around world politics and impressed many Tanzanian politicians as well as reporters. After studying at Oxford, he had worked at the Royal Institute of International Affairs (Chatham House) in London. He had his fifteen minutes of fame in the British political arena in January 1966 when he stood as a candidate for the Kingston-Upon-Hull North seat, as the Radical Alliance candidate. He won 253 votes, one percent of the vote, lost his deposit and never stood for Parliament again. His far greater claim to fame was his identification of the dead body of Che Guevara in the Bolivian Jungle in 1967.

Material from Prensa Latina, the Cuban-based agency, landed on the features/supplements desk every other day along with articles in English taken from Granma, the Cuban newspaper, the American Liberation News Agency and the African Research Group. Vast amounts of material praising the ANC appeared. There was hardly ever a mention about its rival, the Pan Africanist Congress (PAC).

And when Nyerere wanted something said editorially, a messenger would come from State House with a letter from Joan Wicken to David Martin demanding not a comma, not a colon, be changed.

Until Gott’s arrival, our main source of news came from Reuters. Features were provided by the London-based Gemini News Service run by Derek Ingram, the former assistant editor of Britain’s Daily Mail, a man committed to the Commonwealth and Britain’s new ‘enlightened’ post-Empire role in Africa.

Ginwala and Nyerere’s declared aim was to get rid of all expatriates within two to three years of the take-over and replace them with Tanzanian citizens. Journalism was combined with political education classes run by Ginwala and Hall and a variety of guest speakers, most of them white communists from red brick universities in Britain.

Grown men and women born and bred in Africa were taught how to be “real” Africans by a collection of Marxist intellectuals from the other side of the world.

Books, magazines, pamphlets and unpublished PhDs from the Hill cluttered up the office. They included

an easy- to -read summary of Das Kapital by Karl Marx, Conditions of the Working Class in England by Friedrich Engels, Eldridge Cleaver’s Soul on Ice, The Communist Manifesto by Marx and Engels and Revolution in the Revolution by Regis Debray.

Considering I had never claimed socialist credentials (if Frene had known my family background she’d have had a heart attack) it was to my great surprise that she asked me to sign another contract running from August 1970 to the end of July 1972.

David Martin, in those days a close personal friend and one of the first whites Ginwala got rid of, told me I was crazy and that two more years under Ginwala would turn me into even more of a zombie.

“You’re already half way there, “he said. “You’ve started to believe in all that bollocks about Marxism,” he said over a long lunch at the Oyster Bay Hotel where the city’s rich met and ate.

After a holiday in Egypt, Greece, France and England with my young wife and year old son, I returned to Dar es Salaam and found myself living in Brendon Grimshaw’s old flat in front of the Indian Ocean.

What more could a man ask for, I asked myself, not knowing then how soon it would all fade and vanish.

Apart from laying out and subbing supplements I was also responsible for subbing the letter pages.

These contained endless discussions on policy, how to take Tanzania’s wretched down the pathway to socialism and the Ujamaa villages popping up here there and everywhere. We carried letters on two sometimes three pages. People who could write told us about their lives, their fear, their hopes, their anger. Thanks to Frene Ginwala, a terrible abuse involving young Asians girls being sold to fat old black men in Zanzibar was stopped.

She organised lectures delivered by some prominent British Marxists. President Nyerere came to the newsroom (with Joan Wicken and several security heavyweights) to talk about socialism.One of his themes was how “We must run while they walk,” comparing America’s Man on the Moon success and Tanzania’s post-colonial backwardness.

During his first visit several Black Panthers had been invited to sit in. At question time, one of them asked if the Tanzanian government would give its support to their plan to have parts of America held only by blacks. Nyerere said he had spent his life opposing apartheid in South Africa and was not now about to support black apartheid in America.

After the meeting, I heard one Black Panther growl to another Black Panther- “The guy’s a sell-out.”

At another meeting, an elderly black messenger raised his hand. The messenger spoke Swahili which was translated into English.

Mwalimu! Is The Standard a socialist newspaper?

No. Not yet. Our aim is to become a socialist newspaper.

Mwalimu! Under socialism is everything equal?

Well, not everything but we want to see most things equal.

Mwalimu! If you want to see our paper socialist, and all things equal, why are some of the headlines big and some of them small?

Ginwala 

Frene Ginwala (managing editor ) and President Julius Nyerere (editor-in-chief) at a staff question and answer session in the newsroom of ‘The Standard’ in Dar es Salaam soon after the nationalisation of that East African country’s main English language newspaper in February 1971

Apart from Richard Gott, the other prize fish landed by Frene Ginwala was the Kenyan journalist Philip Ochieng whose book “I accuse the Press” (Initiatives Publishers, Nairobi, Kenya 1992) has a section called Partisans and Scribes. It contains an account of Frene’s recruitment drive, her campaign to inject full-blooded Marxism into the staff and a reasonable explanation about what caused this extraordinary woman’s downfall in Tanzania.

Ochieng writes: “In all my 26 years of experience as a newspaperman in all the three East African countries, I do not recall anything like the kind of openness and depth of debate such as took place in Tanzania.”

He recalled that at that time the University of Dar es Salaam was the intellectual Mecca of all Africa attracting thinkers from all over the world. The Tanzanian capital was also the headquarters of all the progressive liberation movements in Africa. The most famous were the Front for the Liberation of Mozambique (FRELIMO), the Popular Movement for the Liberation of Angola (MPLA), the African Party for the Independence of Guinea and Cape Verde Islands (PAIGC), the Zimbabwe African National Union (ZANU), the Pan Africanist Congress of Azania (PAC), the African National Congress of South Africa (ANC) and the South West African People’s Organisation (SWAPO).

Ochieng writes: “Tanzania was the high school of my political education.”

The British journalist David Martin went to his grave saying more or less the same thing although he was never a fan of Ginwala or Ochieng who, in his book, described Martin as “a good reporter in the Fleet Street sense of the word, but a thorough going right winger.”

Frene’s favourite recruit was a young man with film star good looks and a first class brain called Abdalla Ngororo. He was her chosen successor as editor of The Standard, though there was growing feeling in the newsroom that Tanzanian reporters wanted their own grass roots ‘son of the soil,’ a nationalist with few socialist pretentions called Sammy Mdee; not some poetry-loving intellectual from The Hill.

Sadly, or otherwise, Frene was given no time to groom this handsome young student of literature who was kind enough to write me a few thousand words about Lenin for the supplement which consumed not only my waking life but some of my dreaming time, too.

For a number of reasons I was unable to meet the centenary deadline and the 100 page supplement appeared during the last week of May which was the last few days of the rainy season.

I inspected the final pages and sent them through to Frene’s office. She seemed delighted but on one of the pages she returned, a picture of Lenin with Leon Trotsky standing close by had been removed and the word “replace” inserted where it had been.

I asked Tony Hall why? He laughed and said that when that picture had been taken, Trotsky wasn’t there.

Novosti Press Agency’s man in Dar es Salaam was kind enough to send a replacement – Lenin on the rostrum on his own. Not a sign of the man who in 1940 Joseph Stalin had butchered in Mexico.

I heard on the grapevine that the supplement won third prize in some competition in Moscow.

Sadly, not a thimble full of vodka passed my lips in celebration and I cannot remember Frene ever mentioning it again.

VII

It was Frene’s total commitment to Moscow that cut short her time in Tanzania.

Richard Gott wrote many of the paper’s editorials. and when she told Nyerere she’d landed him she spoke about his impeccable radical credentials.

But as so often happens with professional egalitarians, they fell out badly with Frene objecting to his pro-Castro/Maoist/Anarchist line and Gott abhorring her slavish loyalty to the Soviet Union and the Communist wing of the ANC.

“Frene,” he would say rather like a prefect talking to a fag, “If you don’t like it, do it yourself.”

After one serious and very loud disagreement she yelled out, so I and others in the newsroom could hear: “You get your politics from Peking and your arrogance from Winchester.”

Frene went to see Nyerere. Gott went to see Nyerere. They could no longer work together. The president had more than enough problems of his hands trying to make his chaotic Ujamaa re-settlement programmes work. When he heard Ginwala and Gott were at one another’s throats, the titular editor-in-chief told Joan Wicken it was time to get rid of both of them.

The axe didn’t take long to fall and came soon after a May 1971 attempted coup in Sudan.

President Numeiry had been ousted by a group of communists led by Mohammed Mahgroub. At first, the coup seemed successful. But within forty eight hours Numeiry was returned to power by loyalist troops. He responded by killing hundreds of members of the Sudanese Communist Party who only two years earlier had brought him to power.

To start, no editorial was written but after a series of secret military trials the executions started and the heads of many communist leaders fell. The Standard came out with what Frank Barton called a “strident” editorial. In so many words, it said that if you stage a coup it would be better to kill the head of state than leave him alive. Frene accepted responsibility for the editorial but it was written by Richard Gott.

Early on the morning of publication, Radio Tanzania broadcast “From the editorials” and some of the editorial was repeated with Nyerere listening in.

Sadly, no-one had told Frene, Gott or anyone outside of State House that Nimiery was shortly to pay a state visit to Tanzania. Nimiery was one of the few African leaders who strongly supported Nyerere’s correct and courageous stand against Id Amin in Uganda.

That evening Frene Ginwala was sacked. The new editor of The Standard was Sammy Mdee, a fan of Gott, a clever, street-wise, tactical enemy of Ginwala.

VIII

In April 1972 The Standard and The Nationalist merged and the Daily News was born.

I received a friendly letter from Sammy thanking for my past services but pointing out that President Nyerere wanted all senior posts on the Daily News filled by Tanzanians.

That night I had supper with David Martin at his small cottage home close to Kurasini Creek. David was now a highly respected and influential freelancer working mainly for The Observer but also for the BBC’s Focus on Africa programme, in those days edited by the Ugandan journalist, Israel Wamala. I told him that I had been told to leave The Standard earlier than expected and that I was thinking of trying to get a job in Nairobi – either on The Nation or The Lonrho-owned East African Standard. The latter was edited by a man called Colonel Kenneth Bolton who was a close friend of Kenya’s Attorney General, Charles Njonjo, who looked and dressed like a tailor’s dummy and who David Martin wittily described as an Afro Saxon.

“In my CV do you think I should mention to Colonel Bolton that I produced a hundred page supplement on Lenin,” I asked.

“Only if you want to be PI’d from Kenya for the rest of your life,” he said.

I stayed with The Nation in Nairobi for less than a year, resigning after receiving a letter from one of the Aga Khan’s representatives ordering me not to publish any critical features about Idi Amin until AK had got all members of his Ismaili community out of Uganda and into other parts of the Commonwealth.

Most of them went to Canada where the billionaire religious leader pumped an un-known number of dollars into the tourist industry.

I returned to England where I worked for Jim Bailey’s Drum magazine in a Victorian office over a post office in Fleet Street, and later on flew to Zambia in February 1974 where I lived for another two years before working briefly in South Africa, then Zimbabwe from the end of the war there until 1996.

In October that year I went “home” searching for the past and sadly finding it.

Grundy1 

Frene Ginwala surrounded by staff reporters and trainee sub-editors at a early morning analysis of that morning’s edition of ‘The Standard.’)

My desire to see Africa was strong and early in 2002 I bumped in to Andy Chande again in Baker Street, London. Chande had been chairman of the board of governors at Tanganyika Newspapers in 1968. He was rich having married into the Madhvani family who owned so much of Uganda before Idi Amin kicked out the Asians in 1971. He told me he needed help with his autobiography. He took me on. One of the perks was a free trip to Dar es Salaam.

My wife said: “You’ll be crazy to go.”

In Zimbabwe between 1980 and 1996 I had been a correspondent for Beeld as well as the SABC’s Radio Today. I travelled often to South Africa, sometimes carrying shopping lists for white ANC supporters who were calling for even tougher sanctions against the apartheid regime from their new homes in exile.

Of course, I knew how Tanzanians under Nyerere had so loathed apartheid and anyone connected to it- unless your name was Harry Oppenheimer who went there regularly to keep his eye on his diamond mines.

Thirty years had gone by before I went back to Tanzania.

In August 2002 in Dar es Salaam, I was given a guarded to cool welcome by many of the now elderly men who’d been trainee reporters all those years before. They were curious to know what had happened to Richard Gott.

Had he really a KGB agent? Was it true he’d resigned from The Guardian after The Spectator exposed him as a KGB agent? Had he changed that much? How could he have worked for the KGB when he was such a Maoist in Tanzania? One told me how much he liked the red headed author. “He was so modest. We shook hands. I asked him if I should call him Richard or Mr Gott and he patted my shoulder and said – ‘Call me Comrade.’”

I told them that Gott denied he’d been a KGB agent but admitted he’d taken what he called “red gold” during a trip with his partner to the Soviet Union. He told reporters that he’d been stupid accepting money but at the time it seemed such an enjoyable joke.

They knew about Iain Christie who had gone to Maputo where he broadcast against all-white rule in Rhodesia and had earned the derogatory title in Salisbury and Pretoria of “Lord McHaw Haw” because of his Scottish origin.

As for Tony Hall and Rod Prince . . . I knew nothing.

David Martin they all knew and respected. “He never let us down,” said a man who had been trained by Grimshaw long before Frene Ginwala came onto the scene.

“And you. What happened to you . . . Mzee Trevor Grundy.”

I’d left Tanzania in August 1972 still a fairly young man. Back again three decades later I was a Mzee, an honorific title for Old Man.

But I, too had a few questions –

What happened to the student revolutionaries on The Hill, their magazine Cheche, the revolution they planned? Where were they now and what were they doing?

As we ate and drank the answers came, slowly, reluctantly –

Dead, most of them . . .or bank managers, lecturers or men doing okay with the World Bank, the African Development Bank or the IMF.

Cheche was banned after its third issue on the ground that its name gave the impression that Tanzania was building Russian socialism and not true Tanzanian /African socialism. A statement from the students’ union (USARF) said “. . . we do not doubt the wisdom promoting our ban. But one thing must be remembered. Organisations can be banned, individuals can be liquidated but ideas live on. Revolutionary ideas never die.”

One girl from Arusha in her early twenties told me she was a newly qualified sub-editor working for one of the new independent newspapers in Tanzania.

She’d trained at a London technical college paid for by the Commonwealth. Her ambition was to own a flat in Tottenham because she supported Spurs and liked Indian restaurants. She told me that young Tanzanians knew about Nyerere from history at school and everyone respected him because he lived in a beach house and wasn’t corrupt.

She wasn’t the slightest bit interested in me or any of the other whites who crowded in during the Arusha Declaration/Frene Ginwala years and she left when she heard a call to prayer from the top of one of the city’s minarets. Before she left she said -“Revolutions . . . SO 1960s.”

On the day before I left, I had lunch with a long serving TANU MP who told me, after several beers, that he and his colleagues spent most of the time undoing what Julius Nyerere had done so long before.

At one end of the dining room there was a large colour portrait of Nyerere. At the other, a large colour portrait of Ben Mkapa, David Martin’s great friend and Tanzania’s level-headed third president who wrote the foreword to Andy Chande’s autobiography, “A Knight in Africa” (Penumbra Press, Canada 2005)

The MP (he would not appreciate being named) said: “Julius was a good man; maybe a great man but he should have been a teacher or a missionary. So should Kenneth Kaunda, with his guitar and his hymns. Nyerere ruined the country. He was surrounded by a group of idiots who encouraged him to forcibly move millions of peasants and their families in to ujamaa villages without water or electricity or any kind of central planning. And why did the World Bank applaud and provide more than US$ 15 billion in aid during the first 30 years of independence? Why would the world’s capitalists and their banks applaud an enemy of capitalism? And when he got rid of Amin in Uganda he restored Obote which triggered off another civil war. Do you now that towards the end of his life he said capitalism was better than socialism? “

“But everywhere I go there are pictures of him – on walls, on office desks offices – even in hotel bars”, I commented.

He said: “We all need myths and legends. You have Dunkirk and Churchill. We have ujamaa and Nyerere.”

He asked me what I remembered best about my years in Tanzania.

I laughed and said – “The beer and the Lenin Supplement. April or May 1971. One hundred pages to mark the centenary of the birth of Lenin.”

He half-grimaced. “Don’t talk about that. That came up at a party caucus. Someone found out what it had cost the taxpayer . . . one hundred pages, no adverts and all about a man no-one had heard of.”

His face widened and a smile appeared. Several of his teeth were gold. “Do you know what happened to it?”

I remembered the night it came off the press and the look on the faces of the young deliverymen in ragged shirts and wet cotton shorts who hadn’t been told about the extra heavy burden they’d have behind them that night.

“When they were well away from the newspaper building, they chucked the lot of them into the storm drains of the city causing a temporary blockage of Dar as Salaam’s drainage system.”

I said: “Trotsky predicted Lenin’s opponents would end up in the dustbin of history. On this occasion, it was Lenin who ended up in the storm drains of Dar es Salaam.”

He said: “You said you were worried about coming here after you’d worked for the SABC. Half the country’s owned by foreigners – a lot of them South Africans. If you seek Julius Nyerere’s monument, look around. High-rise tower blocks everywhere. The povo would be booted away if they tried to get through those glass doors.”

Then he laughed: “If you want to learn Afrikaans this is the place to be.”

Stupidly I said –“The past is another country.”

“No,” he said. “Another planet.”

And then: “Why did any of you come here? Why all this wanting to see in Africa do all the things you’d never dream of asking for in your own countries? All the social reforms you never had in your own countries? That American economist Reg Green who pushed Nyerere further and further towards the complete nationalisation of . . . everything. And his eternal quoting of the poet Robert Browning as more and more of the country went to the dogs – “A man’s reach must exceed his grasp, or what’s a heaven for?” Who owns the land in Britain and America? Why don’t the Yanks give the land back to the original owners if they’re that concerned about ethics and morality? Doesn’t your famous Prince of Wales own Cornwall? I suppose it was partly our fault for letting you people in, letting you teach our people the wonder and the power of words, the use of certain phrases said in a certain way. You didn’t have to do anything to be a socialist. You just had to say the right thing at the right time and nod, like one of those dogs you see in the back windows of cars. So many sycophants. So many hypocrites posing as socialists. Speak Left and live Right. I read somewhere that Gott goes grouse shooting in Yorkshire with Tariq Ali while calling Pol Pot’s genocide an interesting experiment in human engineering. Do any of these international socialists with their international commitments live in the Third World now? I don’t think so? You all came like 19th century missionaries and now you’ve all had enough and you’ve all sailed home.”

I said: “Engels hunted two days a week with the Cheshire in Manchester. He said it was valuable training for a future commander of revolutionary armies. Perhaps Gott and Ali were practising shooting counter-revolutionaries.”

The European rose in me: “But it’s not just Whites. Look at the great Eldridge Cleaver. Didn’t he end up some Republican Party religious freak?”

I thought he might hit me. Instead, he laughed:

“The Question we all ask now is why our former white overlords were so keen to dismantle their own power structures in Africa and let us take their place. Isn’t that called suicide? What was their real agenda? Were they acting under instructions? Was it all some sort of gigantic pretence to infiltrate us and mislead us?”

I said: “I think Africans are pretty good at misleading themselves. They don’t need outside help. Once the minerals have been sucked out of the ground no-one in the West will give a toss what happens to any of you. But at least Frene got people thinking. What happened after she got the kick? Not too much debate about anything controversial after that, I bet. The man who took over from her was Sammy Mdee. I bet he didn’t have too many ups and downs with Nyerere and TANU. He turned reporters into tape-recorders and loud-speakers for the fat cats. And what happened to all those Marxist revolutionaries at The Hill? I’m told most of them are dead from Aids or bank managers.”

He told me that there was next to nothing left of Nyerere’s long innings. Just portraits on walls, post cards in bookshops, polished and self-censored memories in books.

“Socialism,” he said. “The profitable management of shortages.”

We moved into the street and walked into a wall of heat and humidity that for a while ended our respective monologues.

He said I should try my hand at a book about those people and that time.

“You say you’re not an academic. That’s in your favour. Emulate John Locke who said it was ambition enough to be employed as an under-labourer clearing the ground a little and removing some of the rubbish that lies in the way of knowledge. So many memoirs, so many sob stories . . . all written by well-paid idealists saying the African revolution let them down. All of them gone, all patting one another on the back and applauding their respective heroisms, spreading what the poet Louis Macneice in the 1930s called the myth of themselves.”

“Frene’s still in South Africa,” I said.

“That makes me feel much better,” he said.

We shook hands and exchanged cards. A yard or so later he turned and said –

“Call it The Lenin Supplement. It rolls off the tongue . . .”

“ . . . off the tongue and into the storm drain,” I said.

Trevor Grundy is a journalist who worked in Central, Eastern and Southern Africa from 1966-1996. He is the author of Memoir of a Fascist Childhood (William Heinemann, London 1998 and Arrow Books 1999.

‘Widows of Malabar Hill’ kicks off former Minnesotan’s new mystery series set in India

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It is 1921 in Bombay, India, and three widows who live in purdah — secluded in women’s quarters where men cannot see them — have signed away their inheritances to a charity. Perveen Mistry, the city’s only woman lawyer, has just joined her father’s thriving law firm and is tasked with executing the will of the women’s wealthy Muslim husband. Perveen’s suspicions are raised when she meets the man who is supposed to be the defenseless women’s guardian but seems to be mostly interested in their money.

Review by Mary Ann Grossmann | Pioneer Press

widows-of-malabar-hillSo begins “The Widows of Malabar Hill,” first in a series by Sujata Massey in which history and culture blend in an involving and fast-paced mystery. Massey, who grew up in St. Paul’s University Grove neighborhood, already has fans for her 11 award-winning mysteries featuring Japanese-American antiques dealer Rei Shimura.

In a conversation from her home in Baltimore, Massey said that “Perveen is partly based on Cornelia Sorabji, the first woman to read law at Oxford and the first woman to sit the British law examine in 1892, and Mithan Tata Lam, who also read law at Oxford and was the first woman admitted to the Bombay Bar in 1923.”

“The Widows of Malabar Hill” was a hit even before its Jan. 9 publication date. It earned starred reviews from Publishers Weekly, Booklist and Library Journal and was the American Booksellers Association’s IndieNext selection for January.

Perveen is a fascinating character — smart, resourceful, ready to take on prejudices against women in the law. She is a member of the Parsi community, followers of the Zoroastrian faith who migrated from what was then Persia, so the story is filled with the food and customs of that tight-knit community. And as a former abused wife, Perveen wants to help women who had few rights in those years of the Raj, when Britain ruled India. She also has a privileged position because her family is wealthy and respected and she’s the best friend of Alice, the governor’s gay daughter.

Massey says that by the time she completed her last Rei Simura adventure, which she self-published in 2014, she was ready for a change from telling contemporary stories set in Tokyo. So it was natural she would be inspired by the vibrancy and diverse cultures in 1920s India, homeland of her father, Subir K. Banerjee, professor emeritus in geophysics at the University of Minnesota. Her mother, Karin, is from Germany.

Massey’s first foray into historical fiction set in India was “The Sleeping Dictionary,” which she wrote when she was living in Minneapolis’ Lake of the Isles neighborhood from 2006 to 2012, when her psychiatrist husband, Anthony Massey, was medical director at Cigna Behavioral Health Inc. in Eden Prairie.

“I loved writing that book,” Massey said of “The Sleeping Dictionary,”  the story of a peasant girl’s journey toward personal and political independence in the 1930s and ’40s.  “I adored that world of early 20th century India. I felt like I wanted to continue there. I also wanted to get back to mystery and with this new series I can do both.”

Perveen first came to life in a novella, “Outnumbered at Oxford,” one of four pieces of historical fiction in “India Gray” (2015). The story, a sort-of prequel to “The Widows of Malabar Hill,” is about Perveen and Alice trying to locate an Indian servant who may have stolen an invaluable mathematics proof at St. Hilda’s College at Oxford, where they were students.

“I was just starting work on ‘The Widows of Malabar Hill’ and I wanted to know my character a little better,” Masey said about writing the novella. “It helped me dive into the novel knowing where Perveen was psychologically. Things that were touched on in the novella — that Alice and Perveen are really good friends, their ability to solve a mystery because they’ve done it, some complications with their romantic lives — were touched on slightly in the novella and the truth comes out in the novel.”

Massey doesn’t shy away from depicting some of cruel treatment women were subjected to in those days. After Perveen marries, she finds to her horror that women in her husband’s traditional family must stay in a locked, bare room during their periods, without seeing anyone, washing themselves or access to a bathroom.

“This was an orthodox custom and I highly doubt anyone is doing it today,” Massey said, adding that purdah has similarly gone away, except for some very old women who have never known any other way of life.

The novel also makes clear that Perveen’s mostly forward-looking community was benevolent in funding hospitals and women’s education.

COMING TO AMERICA

Massey, 53, was born in Sussex, England, and immigrated to the U.S. when she was 5. After graduating from the old Alexander Ramsey High School in Roseville, she earned a degree from the creative-writing program of Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore and got a job as a reporter on the now-defunct Baltimore Evening Sun newspaper. After she married Tony Massey, the couple moved to Japan so he could fulfill his military obligation. That’s where Sujata absorbed Japanese culture that permeates her Shimura mysteries, some of which she wrote when her kids — 19-year-old daughter Pia and 16-year-old son Neel — were in grade school.

Now that the kids are grown, Massey travels to India about once a year, spending two or three weeks in Bombay (now Mumbai) to soak up atmosphere and get ideas for future books.

“When I’m in Bombay, I stay in a very old section, called Fort, where this story takes place,” she explained. “The Royal Bombay Yacht Club is a wonderful old social club built during the British years, a beautiful late-Victorian building. Lots of places in the book are in walking distance of the club so it’s a neat way to do research.”

During her February trip to India, Massey will also do book signings since “The Widows of Malabar Hill” is being published there in English.

Her research brings her back to Minnesota often to work at  the University of Minnesota’s Ames Library of South Asia and to consult with Mitra Sharafi of the University of Wisconsin at Madison, a legal historian and associate professor at the law school who specializes in the role of Parsis in India’s legal history.

While she’s here she can visit her parents, both of whom remarried after they divorced. Her father lives near Highland Park and her mother is in the big house where Massey grew up.

Another local angle is that the finely-dawn maps at the front of the novel were done by Philip Schwartzberg, owner of Minneapolis-based Meridian Mapping.

“Philip owned an antique map of Bombay from a rare book his father has,” Massey says of Schwartzberg. “Most of the places on Philip’s map in the book are real. Anyone who’s carrying it can walk around and go to these places.”

NEXT ADVENTURES IN BOMBAY

Massey’s already working on the third mystery in this series and she’s excited about the possibilities for future books. The Ames Library has a database of old articles from Indian newspapers where she learned of an unsolved case that might have to do with murder at a palace of two Parsi girls in the 1800s. And there’s inspiration from the life of lawyer Mithan Tata Lam, a key figure in expanding people’s freedom to divorce in 1936.

“Before the change in laws, the only way women could get a divorce was if the  physical violence was so extreme, like losing an eye or limb,” she says. “It didn’t mean a knocked-out tooth or broken bone or rape. The new law allowed people to divorce just because they didn’t get along.”

Besides her enjoyment in writing the new series, Massey is happy that promoting these books will allow her to continue her relationships with mystery bookstores and readers.

“That kind of network of stores with devoted followers who come again and again and read whole series. You don’t get that with literary fiction,” she says. “It’s a sweet spot for a writer.”

WHAT THE CRITICS ARE SAYING

“An outstanding series launch. … The period detail and thoughtful characterizations, especially of the capable, fiercely independent lead, bode well for future installments.” — Publishers Weekly

“(Massey) gives enough cultural details without overwhelming readers with facts. The two plotlines wonderfully depict the development of the main character and the mystery as it unfolds. …Fresh and original.” — Library Journal

“In addition to getting an unusual perspective on women’s rights and relationships … each of the many characters is uniquely described, flaws and all, which is the key to understanding their surprising roles in the well-constructed puzzle. — Booklist

Shelley Subawalla: Founder Of Zarin’s Secrets In Conversation

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Tell  us about yourself and your background

It is always so difficult to talk about oneself. I am a 40-year-old Parsi (Zoroastrian) lady residing in New Delhi, India. A married mother-of-two, I completed my education in Delhi at the Carmel Convent school followed by Jesus and Mary college where I attained my Bachelor’s degree in History. After my education was completed I spent a year or two working at O&M, NIS (the National Institute of Sales) and Selvel Media Services Pvt. Ltd. I put my career on a back seat after my children and then proceeded to be a full time mother for the next sixteen years. I started ‘Zarin’s Secrets’ in 2015.

Interview with Ashish Bhardwaj | We Are The City

5068481890-e1469697625742I am an avid reader with a voracious appetite for travel. I yearn and try my best to visit and see new places whenever possible. I can spend days with my nose buried in my book and have recently ventured into the world of writing with my blog. It emphasises family, culture, traditions and how all these, along with food, play an important role in one’s life for generations to come.

I come from a typical Parsee family, brought up with stories of tradition, religious sanctity and community pride. I am doing my best to bring up my children with the same values, communal pride and individuality.

Along with being a homemaker and running ’Zarin’s Secrets’, I head the event planning committee for our Parsee community in Delhi. We are a small community of around 600 individuals and we try and do our best to organise regular events and get-togethers (over and above our annual festivals) in order to promote communal interaction, longevity and harmony. The reason behind my doing this is to, in my small way, give back to my community a tiny bit of what it has given me my entire life.

Being a mother of two children, I try and volunteer my time in their school; planning and executing reading programmes and other activities to inculcate in today’s children a need and love for reading.

Tell us about the company you have set up?

‘Zarin’s Secrets’ was started in 2015. We have recently celebrated our one-year anniversary and I must confess it has been extremely exciting. We basically deal with making and selling homemade, authentic Parsee spices and condiments. We are still a small set up, operating from the house, but I am happy and honoured to say that we have started making a name for ourselves and deliver all over India. We make spices like the famous Dhan saak masala, typical Parsee pickles, sweet and sweet and spicy chutnies and biscuits, amongst others.

Parsee cuisine is a very niche market with everyone enamoured by it and wanting to try it, however, hesitating as they think it complicated. It has become extremely popular recently as a lot of people want to try and experiment with new cuisines. Our aim is to show and prove to the world that Parsee cuisine, alongside being delicious (which it is), is also extremely easy to make. Toward that end, we include a recipe for the dish along with every spice packet that a person purchases.

My target audience is basically all cooks, everywhere! Along with being extremely popular amongst the Parsee households, who like mine, deal with Parsee food on a regular basis and hence need the special spices required; we have also found a huge demand for our products from non-Parsee families, belonging to other communities. A large part of our clients are made up of people who basically just love to eat and cook.

Why did you set up the company? / What drove you to become an Entrepreneur?

The Parsee community is a small community steeped in rich culture, tradition, harmony and a varied heritage. There are so many distinct aspects that set us apart from all other communities. Through ‘Zarin’s Secrets’, I hope to spread awareness and bring to light this uniqueness and wealth of tradition that can only enrich and enhance the lives of those surrounding us. Food is an amazing rope, that, when made with love, will always keep communities bound together.

Female-Entrepreneur-Shelley-SubawallaOur main distinguishing feature is that our products are all 100 per cent authentic, traditionally Parsee. I have been cooking for my family since the day I got married, as have my sisters, aunts, my mother, her mother before her and so on and so forth. To help in my cooking, my grandmother gave me all her family recipes, which have been in my family for generations. My friends and family had been after me for years to start making the spices and condiments on a professional basis as they saw how open and eager the market was.

I finally gave in and started the company in my grandmother’s name Zarin, as she was the one responsible for teaching me how to cook and for enhancing my cooking knowledge.

I decided to create the company and become an entrepreneur as I was receiving a lot of requests for my spices and found that since I had a bit of time on my hands as my children were older, now would be the right time to finally take the plunge and start doing what I had been wanting to do for years.

What has been your biggest challenge in achieving your success?

Since I deal with running ‘Zarin’s Secrets’, my hectic community work, the school voluntary programmes, looking after the house and family and bringing up two children, to name but a few; I would say my biggest challenge would be time management and adequacy. As enjoyable and exciting as it might be, there are times when it is extremely difficult to manage everything together and give it your best without compromising on the quality of effort and achievement.

What has been your greatest achievement so far?

We are a small company so far. So, small yet important things give us pleasure and are considered an achievement. We were mentioned in a popular blog ‘A movable feast’ by a food writer Anoothi Vishal, we have participated in fairs, exhibitions and put up stalls at events. But most of all, our greatest achievement has been the love, support and demand we have received from everyone which just goes to show the popularity and seal of quality on our products and company. Customer satisfaction is our greatest achievement.

Who has been your biggest inspiration?

My biggest inspiration has been my maternal grandmother Zarin Gimi, in whose name I started this venture. All my life I saw her manage the house and the family as well as work hand in hand with my grandfather in his business and his various social activities. If ever there was a complete woman: it was her. Whatever I do, I do with her in mind and hope that I can become one tenth of the woman that she was.

How do you balance your work life and home life?

That is a rather valid and important question. I wouldn’t say it was easy at all. For a woman who is a homemaker, venturing out into the big bad business world, juggling various balls up in the air simultaneously, it’s never easy. I guess, what I try to do is plan my day well and systematically finish all my outside jobs and commitments when the children are in school and keep the second half free for the home based cooking and product creation. Life is all about balance and one just has to find the best combination and structure that works.

What advice do you have for women starting out on their own?

My advice would be: I know it’s scary, but please just take a deep breath and plunge in. Once in, you will find your way. One only has to gather the courage to take that first, terrifying, bold step. Along with the usual and kind encouragers, there will be a lot of people who will try their best to discourage and scare you. Please ignore them and follow your heart. Find yourself a wonderful support system, be it a close friend or family, and never look back.

5068481892If you could ask for one thing to help propel your business what would it be?

Healthy appetites and inquisitive palates.

What does the future hold for you?

The future, at the moment, is a work in progress. Plans are in place and massive efforts are being put in to turn them into reality. I would like, through my efforts, to try and bring the wonder of Parsee food into every kitchen of India. I would love to continue working for my community and do my bit to preserve its existence.

‘Zarins Secrets’ is planning on venturing into pop-up events to spread the taste and word about Parsee cuisine. We also plan to add a few more products to our repertoire.

When all is said and done, the future sounds extremely exciting and with my grandmother’s blessings, I will hopefully succeed.

About Shelley Subawalla

I am a 40-year-old mother of two, who loves to cook, read, write and travel. I possess an adventurous streak and rather look forward to venturing out into the unknown. I like to keep myself busy by involving myself in multiple activities. I look after my children and home, work actively for my community, write a blog and have now started a business of my own. Having started out on this road, I find myself changing my earlier conservative and safe outlook toward life. I now believe that life is all about taking risks, following your heart, setting goals and working hard toward achieving them. Being a proud Zoroastrian, I work very hard to inculcate in my children the same pride in the uniqueness and wonder of our community that I myself possess.

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The Delhi Parsi Aramgah

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Walking through any cemetery is bound to stir feelings.

And perhaps even more so in this secluded graveyard in central Delhi that belongs to the rapidly dwindling Parsi community, descendants of a religiously persecuted people who sought refuge in India more than 1,000 years ago.

Article by Mayank Austen Soofi | Hindustan Times

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Parsi cemetery, called Aramgah or the House of Rest, at Prithviraj Road.(Mayank Austen Soofi / HT Photo)

Parsis adhere to the ancient Zoroastrian faith, with its own special tenets. Yet although Parsis traditionally opt for last rites in Tower of Silence, quite a few of them — as we can see — opt to be buried.

In any case, Delhi has no such tower, though it does have a Fire Temple near ITO crossing, the only one in North India.

This Parsi cemetery, called Aramgah or the House of Rest, is akin to a garden with thoughtfully laid out flower beds and benches. Narrow gravel paths run alongside tombs inscribed with the impression of Faravahar, the winged symbol of Zoroastrianism. Most graves are astonishingly well maintained, and many have flowers growing out of them.

According to the website Delhi parsis.com, the National Capital Region has fewer than a thousand Parsis. The graveyard itself has about 300 graves. The newest is still a mound of earth — it came up just last month. The tombstone bearing the departed person’s name is yet to be installed.

Another recent grave — “1930 to 2017” — was dotted with plants.

As always, we started doing what we love most about graveyards — reading the epitaphs.

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One grave was inscribed with: “Missed with a grief/Beyond all tears”.

Another had a most heart-touching line across its stone: “You are always in our hearts”

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As we turn around we spot something almost as rare as a Parsi — a tall bougainvillea tree. And then, a narangi tree in full bloom, its fruit studding all over like colourful stars in the sky.

We also notice another poignant aspect about the cemetery: a substantial part of it is still empty, probably waiting for its share of graves.

After leaving, we walk for 10 minutes and reach a similarly unique place — Delhi’s only Jewish graveyard.


Delhi Parsi Anjuman’s President Yezad Kapadia Steps Down

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Yezad Kapadia, who presided over the Delhi Parsi Anjuman for the last few years has retired from his position, per an email communique below.

imageYezad Kapadia writes…

Dear Fellow Members of The Delhi Parsi Anjuman, 

As I had mentioned at the last AGM held in September 2017, my term as a Trustee andsubsequently, as your President, came to an end at that AGM.

At the behest of some of our Members and Trustees, I have continuedas your President for a few months more. I wish to inform you that I have stepped down  as the President, at the Board of Trustees meeting held on 14  January 2018.

I do believe that the Trustees have, during my tenure as President, achieved some milestones. This has been made possible by your support
and the contributions made by all the Trustees.

According to the Rules, Mrs  Ava Khullar, as the Vice President,  will take over as Acting President.
I urge you to give Ava your full support so that the Anjuman can move forward in a more meaningful way. Ava will also be sharing her
thoughts with you shortly.

My full support to you and the Trustees will, in any desired way, always be available for The Delhi Parsi Anjuman.

With warm regards

Yezad Kapadia

Food Paves a Parsi-Jewish Passage to India

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Food’s power to educate people about cultures united Parsi chef Meherwan Irani (owner of Chai Pani), Jewish chefs Todd Ginsberg (The General Muir) and Eli Kirshtein (formerly The Luminary), and Indian chef Archna Becker (Bhojanic) for Challah Walla, an evening of delicious food and discussion about cultural similarities between Jews and Parsis on Dec. 7 at The General Muir.

Article by Sarah Moosazadeh | Atlanta Jewish Times

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The restaurant was packed, but I found a corner table with three other women, Rim Hendi from Egypt, Leah Efstathion from Greece and Kennedy Hawkins from Alabama, who were all as excited as I was to learn about similarities between Parsis and Jews.

When I first heard about the event, I was excited to try some Indian food, but I never imagined I would gain a deeper appreciation for my culture or new friends.

Before dinner, Irani talked about Parsis and Jews. He noted that Zoroastrians and Jews lived side by side thousands of years ago in Persia — modern Iran — until religious persecution forced them to flee to countries such as India.

Parsis are today known as India’s Jews. Although they’ve diverged from their ancestors, traditional dishes have helped preserve their heritage.

As the waiter brought our appetizers, we were awe-struck by the assortment of foods before us, such as burekas filled with squash and dates, as well as onion, garlic and poha samosas. I took one bite of the bureka and was instantly transported to my childhood.

I grew up eating Persian desserts with ingredients such as rose water, saffron and crushed walnuts, which the burekas reminded me of, and learned from Hendi that those ingredients were also popular in Egyptian cuisine.

The ladies and I were still finishing our appetizers when the waiter brought the first course: saffron and spinach matzah ball soup and chraime of bream gefilte fish. As a Sephardic Jew, I didn’t grow up eating traditional Ashkenazi dishes but have grown to enjoy them since my dad began incorporating them into our family Shabbat dinners.

Still, you can imagine my surprise when Efstathion asked the only Jew at the table, “What’s gefilte fish, and how is it made?”

I was not much help, but Hendi began to explain what gefilte fish is and how it is often found in big jars in supermarkets. I am pretty sure Hendi didn’t grow up eating Jewish food, and I found it fascinating that she knew so much about Jewish culture.

Chef Todd Ginsberg’s gefilte fish raised questions about traditional Jewish food.

Just when the ladies and I couldn’t stuff ourselves any more, our waiter brought out the last courses: duck breast, lentils and green olive sauce and lamb biryani — made of leg of lamb, garam masala, basmati rice, saffron, barberries, mint and yogurt.

Before we dug in, Hendi and I noticed that something was missing. Where was the yogurt that is customary to serve alongside Middle Eastern dishes?

The waiter said the yogurt was cooked into the rice. Hendi and I looked at each other in disbelief. Iranians and Egyptians for the most part serve yogurt on the side.

But we were happy to discover a modern adaptation of the menu and learn something.

Shortly before we finished our desserts — milk and honey basbousas and apple and honey cake — Hawkins asked, “How come Middle Eastern food tastes so good and other cultures’ food, such as Ireland’s or Germany’s, is often tasteless.”

Hendi and I knew this was a question we could both answer. The Middle East has different climates and regions that help produce an array of spices, such as turmeric and saffron, not readily available for everyday cuisine in other countries.

As we finished the last morsels of our desserts, I couldn’t help recalling American Jewish Committee Atlanta Regional Director Dov Wilker’s earlier comments: “I hope that your experience through food will not only translate into your stomachs, but also your hearts and minds, and will create an opportunity for you to share your story not just with people at your table, but with friends throughout the community.”

How lucky I am that I was able to do both.

What Connects Jamsetji Tata and Vivekananda ? A Sea Voyage That Changed India!

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The year was 1893. On May 31, aboard a steamer that sailed from Yokohama to Vancouver, two great Indians met for the first time. One was an industrialist who would go on to become one of India’s greatest visionaries, Jamsetji Tata. The other was a monk who would take India’s spiritual tradition to the West more effectively than ever before, Swami Vivekananda.

Article by Sanchari Pal | The Better India

“Rooted in the past, full of pride in India’s prestige, Vivekananda was yet modern in his approach to life’s problems, and was a kind of bridge between the past of India and her present.” – Jawaharlal Nehru

Here’s the fascinating story of the encounter that marks a little-known, yet crucial, moment in the history of India.

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Photo Source

In 1893, Jamsetji was on his way to an industrial exposition in Chicago. A frequent visitor to Japan (there’s an interesting story behind this, read it here). He was staying at the same hotel into which Vivekananda would check in a few days later.

Soon after, on a sunny afternoon in May, the illustrious duo embarked on a voyage from the Japanese port of Yokohama to the Canadian port of Vancouver aboard SS Empress of India, a 16,992 ton luxury steamship belonging to the Canadian Pacific Steamship Company

While the two had met earlier, Jamsteji and Vivekananda had not had the time to engage in lengthy conversations. They did now and when they met again on the promenade of the ship, they got talking.

Vivekananda narrated to Jamsetji the experiences he had gained during his travels throughout the length and breadth of India as a wandering monk in the quest of truth. He talked about the relentless oppression and repression of his fellow Indians he had seen at the hands of colonial authorities.

Furthermore, he spoke about how, during his visit to in Canton (Guangzhou) in China, he had come across many Sanskrit and Bengali manuscripts in Buddhist monasteries.

He also explained that taking his faith to the West and calling for unity between the world’s major religions was the mission of his visit to the World Parliament of Religions.

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Swami Vivekananda at the World Parliament of Religions

Photo Source

Considered to be the first global interfaith event in modern history, the World parliament of Religions was a gathering of more than 5,000 religious officials, scholars, and historians representing the major world faiths.

It was held between September 11 to 27, 1893, as part of the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago.

They also discussed Japan’s phenomenal progress in technology and Jamsetji’s plan of laying the foundations of the steel industry to India. The founder of one of India’s largest conglomerates, Jamsetji also explained that he was in search of equipment and technology that would help make India a strong industrial nation.

Vivekananda endorsed the vision with enthusiasm, adding that the real hope of India lay in the prosperity and progress of its ordinary millions. He also added that instead of importing matches from Japan, Jamsetji should manufacture them in India and help provide a livelihood to the rural poor.

Jamsetji Tata

Photo Source

Impressed by Vivekananda’s views on science and deep-rooted patriotism, Jamsetji requested his guidance in his campaign in establishing a research Institute in India. The visionary monk smiled, gave his blessings and remarked,

“How wonderful it would be if we could combine the scientific and technological achievements of the West with the asceticism and humanism of India!”

Jamsetji and Vivekananda never met after that journey. But these words struck a chord in the industrialist’s heart and five years later, he wrote a letter to Vivekananda. Here is what it said:

Esplanade House, Bombay.

23rd Nov. 1898

Dear Swami Vivekananda,

I trust, you remember me as a fellow- traveller on your voyage from Japan to Chicago. I very much recall at this moment your views on the growth of the ascetic spirit in India, and the duty, not of destroying, but of diverting it into useful channels.

I recall these ideas in connection with my scheme of Research Institute of Science for India, of which you have doubtless heard or read. It seems to me that no better use can be made of the ascetic spirit than the establishment of monasteries or residential halls for men dominated by this spirit, where they should live with ordinary decency and devote their lives to the cultivation of sciences –natural and humanistic.

I am of opinion that if such a crusade in favour of an asceticism of this kind were undertaken by a competent leader, it would greatly help asceticism, science, and the good name of our common country; and I know not who would make a more fitting general of such a campaign than Vivekananda.

Do you think you would care to apply yourself to the mission of galvanizing into life our ancient traditions in this respect? Perhaps, you had better begin with a fiery pamphlet rousing our people in this matter. I would cheerfully defray all the expenses of publication.”

With kind regards,

I am, dear Swami,

Yours faithfully,

Jamsetji Tata

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Photo Source

Busy setting up the Ramakrishna Mission, Vivekananda was unable accept the offer but he promptly sent his disciple, Sister Nivedita to meet met Jamsetji. Working together, they formulated a detailed plan for the research institute.

But it was promptly suppressed by the then-Viceroy, Lord Curzon.

However Jamsetji persevered and continued to work on these plans, convinced that the future progress of the country depended crucially on research in science and envisaged an institution that would encourage the same.

In 1898, he was on the lookout for a suitable place for such an institution when he met and discussed his idea with Sheshadri Iyer, the Diwan of Mysore. The two of them convinced the then-ruler of Mysore, Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV, to donate roughly 372 acres of free land in the heart of Bangalore and provide other necessary facilities.

Interestingly, Jamsetji’s words also seem to have had an impact on Vivekananda. The book, ‘The Complete Works of Swami Vivekananda‘, includes the following report from the Salem Evening News of August 29, 1893.

“According to Swami Veve Kyonda (Vivekananda), the need of the people of India is not more religion, or a better one, but as he expresses it, ‘practicality’. It is with the hope of interesting the American people in this great need of the suffering, starving millions that he has come to this country.

He said that missionaries had fine theories there and started with good ideas but had done nothing for the industrial condition of the people. He said, instead of sending missionaries, it would be better if Americans send someone who could give industrial education.”

Swami Vivekananda died in July 1902 and Jamsetji died two years later, unaware that their shared vision would be realised five years later. The Tata Institute of Science was born in 1909 and renamed the Indian Institute of Science (IISC) in 1911.

Today, it is the pride of Indian and one of the premier research institutions in the world.

Subsequent ventures by the Tata Group also included the establishment of the Tata Institute of Social Sciences (in 1930s) and of the Tata Institute of Fundamental Research (in 1940s).

The Life and Death of Bombay’s Irani Chai

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In the streets of South Bombay (I still refer to the city as Bombay, as the name didn’t change to Mumbai until after I left the country), hidden from plain sight by a thick veil of traffic and pedestrians, lie the iconic Irani cafés. Unlike most restaurants or cafés, they lack fanfare or fancy banners, and if you weren’t looking for an exact address, you’d probably keep walking. But these cafés have been an integral part of Bombay culture and history. Established by the Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran in the 19th century, they served as some of the earliest cosmopolitan spots for people to gather and eat during lunch breaks from the office or after a busy day of work in a growing metropolis. The Irani cafés were also popular destinations where people once met to hatch plans to achieve independence for India.

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Article by Nik Sharma | Taste

Inside the cafés, the shelves are lined with freshly baked loaves and sweet and savory pastries, like the wafer-like khara biscuit. You can ask for a table and explore the endless options of Zoroastrian cuisine with their distinct Bombay flair, from the crispy fried chicken farcha to a glass of the sweet sakenjabeen (a drink made with honey and vinegar) or a cup of the hot milky tea better known as chai.

The Zoroastrian community left Iran in two waves: The first group left in the early 8th century to escape religious persecution and are referred to as Parsis. The second wave occurred in the 19th century over fear of persecution during the Islamic revolution of Iran. These immigrants are called Irani. Though both the Parsi and Irani communities share the same faith, they diverge culturally. The Irani community also speak Persian languages, such as Farsi and Dari, unlike the Parsis, who mostly speak Gujarati. Furthermore, members of the Irani community are not required to abide by the laws of the Bombay Parsi Panchayat (a governing body consisting of seven elected members). It was this second set of immigrants, the Iranis, who would meet over hot cups of chai to fondly remember their family and friends left behind in Iran. Some enterprising folk saw the potential in these food- and tea-laden meetings, and this led to to the birth of the beloved Irani cafés of Bombay.

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In the 1950s, there were some 350 Irani cafés in Bombay serving steaming hot cups of Irani chai with plates of brun maska pao (bread and butter), fragrant mawa cakes baked in little tinfoil containers, and plates of kheema pao (minced meat with bread). Now there are a fewer than 100. This decline reflects the problems that many independent small businesses face with the arrival of globalization in India but also another problem: the steady decline of the Iranian culture and population in India. Soaring real estate costs and weak profits have only exacerbated the situation.

Despite this adversity, café owners have tried to stay competitive by introducing trendier foods, including Indo-Chinese dishes like chicken haka noodles or the hot and spicy Manchurian chicken with fried rice (India has a significant Chinese population, and their unique cuisine is reflective of Indians’ preference for bold flavors and spices). The fate of the cafés and their food hangs in a precarious balance.

On a hot summer December afternoon, we climb the steps and walk into the 100-year-old Kyani & Co., one of the oldest Irani cafés still in business. Not much has changed since I last saw it, four years ago. Though the room is mostly dark and unevenly lit, it’s busy and we’re pointed to a square wooden table covered with a green-and-white checkered cloth. I look around, and there are many references to an India of the past. The ornate wood-crafted interiors from the days of the British, large black-and-white framed photos of people I am unfamiliar with, as well as some of the iconic landmarks of the city of Bombay, like the Taj Mahal hotel. On one side of the room there are large wood and glass cabinets that reveal the different breads and cookies that are available for purchase today. There’s also a small separate line where people pick up their preordered breads and cakes.

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Our menu sits on top of our table, which is covered by a sheet of clear glass. We quickly order since we all have a good idea of what we want. The kitchen is busy—trays of fresh eggs on the kitchen counter keep disappearing as fast as they’re used. Waiters rush in and out with their orders. The food arrives in a matter of seconds, and we dive into it. My cup of chai is steaming, just the way it should be, and makes the perfect beverage to accompany the food at our table.

I’ve missed this. The Irani chai is richer and much creamier than the typical Indian chai that’s made with black tea and milk. The extra milky flavor comes from the use of mawa or khoya, a solid obtained by slowly evaporating milk in large pans and adding it to a pot of tea that’s been brewed by boiling water with black tea powder (as opposed to leaves). This results in a tea with a much more distinct sweetness from the sugars naturally present in milk. This one has a hint of cinnamon.

As I sink my spoon into this little mawa cake and finish my chai, I notice an old grandfather clock on the wall. The second hand continues to tick as a group of college kids walk in and ask the waiter to bring them several plates of akuri (Parsi-style scrambled eggs), buttered bread, and cups of chai. This next generation gives me hope that the Irani cafés might just survive the test of time.

Irani Chai Recipe

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2 servings

Ingredients

    2 cups water

    2 tablespoons Indian black tea, such as Assam or Darjeeling

    4 cups whole milk

    ¼ cup mawa or khoya (you can also substitute dry milk powder)

    Sugar as needed

      Irani chai is a unique form of tea unlike any other version of Indian chai, made by the addition of mawa or khoya to black tea. The result is a sweet and creamy chai—the addition of spices like cinnamon and green cardamom is optional. While the exact ratios for Irani chai is a secret closely held by most Irani café owners, this recipe gets you the same taste and flavor.

      Mawa or khoya is used in the preparation of many Indian desserts and is prepared by simmering large quantities of full-fat milk in wide pans for several hours until all the liquid has evaporated and only the pale-yellow milk solids remain. The milk solids are then removed and either sold commercially or used as needed. You can purchase mawa or khoya at most Indian grocery stores across America, but if it’s hard to find, use dry milk powder (a good but not perfect substitute).

        Bring the water to a rolling boil in a medium saucepan. Add the tea leaves and reduce heat, then continue to boil for about 20 minutes until the volume reduces by half. Remove from heat and filter through a fine-mesh strainer and discard the tea leaves. Keep warm.

        In a separate large saucepan, heat the milk on medium heat and bring to a boil. Stir constantly until the milk is reduced to 1½ cups. Whisk in the mawa, khoya, or dry milk powder until smooth and continue to cook until it thickens slightly, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

        Mix the filtered tea and the reduced milk mixture. Sweeten if desired, divide between two cups, and serve hot.

        Note: You can also add ½ teaspoon of ground cinnamon and 1 teaspoon of ground green cardamom to the tea when brewing, if desired.

        Homai Vyarawalla: The trailblazer who became India’s first woman photojournalist

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        Homai Vyarawalla, India’s first woman photojournalist, is best known for documenting the country’s transition from a British colony to a newly independent nation. The BBC chronicles her life and career through a rare collection of her work.

        Published on BBC

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        Image caption Ms Vyarawalla with her constant companion, the speed graphic camera

        Ms Vyarawalla was born on 9 December 1913 in the western Indian state of Gujarat. .

        She spent much of her childhood on the move because her father was an actor in a travelling theatre group. But the family soon moved to Mumbai (then Bombay), where she attended the JJ School of Art.

        She was in college when she met Manekshaw Vyarawalla, a freelance photographer, who she would later marry. It was he who introduced her to photography.

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        Image caption Ms Vyarawalla’s earliest photos were taken during her college days

        She received her first assignment – to photograph a picnic – while she was still in college. It was published by a local newspaper, and soon she started to pick up more freelance assignments.

        She began to draw more attention after her photographs of life in Mumbai were published in The Illustrated Weekly of India magazine.

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        Image caption Her earlier work included photographing people from all walks of life

        The Vyarawallas moved to Delhi in 1942 after they were hired to work as photographers for the British Information Service.

        Ms Vyarawalla, one of few female photojournalists working at the time in Delhi, was often seen cycling through the capital with her camera strapped to her back.

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        Image caption A fox hunt in Delhi in the 1940s

        She took her most iconic images, however, after India became independent – from the departure of the British from India, to the funerals of Mahatma Gandhi and former prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru.

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        Image caption Lord Mountbatten travels from the viceroy’s home to the parliament on 15 August 1947

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        Image caption India celebrates its first Republic Day on 26 January 1950 in Delhi

        Ms Vyarawalla also photographed most prominent independence leaders.

        But she said in an interview that her biggest regret was that she missed photographing the meeting where Mahatma Gandhi was assassinated. She was on her way to attend it when her husband called her back for some other work.

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        Image caption Mahatma Gandhi Photo by: left

        Her work also includes candid, close-up photographs of celebrities and dignitaries who visited India in the years following independence, including China’s first prime minister Zhou Enlai, Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Minh, Queen Elizabeth II and US President John F Kennedy.

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        Image caption Queen Elizabeth at a fashion show in Delhi in 1961

        Ms Vyarawalla photographed many famous people but Mr Nehru figures most prominently in her work as her “favourite subject”.

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        Image caption Mr Nehru lights a cigarette for the wife of a British diplomat

        She said in an interview that when Mr Nehru died she “cried, hiding my face from other photographers”.

        Image caption Mr Nehru with his sister Vijayalaxmi Pandit

        Ms Vyarawalla clicked her last picture in 1970, retiring after a four-decade-long career. She left Delhi after her husband died in 1969 and moved to Gujarat.

        She was awarded India’s second highest civilian honour, the Padma Vibhushan, in 2011. She died on 16 January 2012 at the age of 92.

        Photos: HV Archive/ The Alkazi Collection of Photography

        Homai Vyarawalla’s photography is part of the permanent collection of The Alkazi Foundation for the Arts based in Delhi.

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